Universal Geneve Vintage Polerouter Sub SS

More about Vintage Polerouter Sub SS

This is a vintage c. late 1960's stainless steel Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 869120. It has a perforated composite tropic rubber strap with a stainless steel tang buckle, and a domed acrylic crystal. There is a screw-down crown protected by case-guard shoulders, and a solid screw-down case back. The inner case is antimagnetic and is signed with hallmarks. The 38mm diameter solid two-body case, straight lugs, and external rotating unidirectional bezel are polished/brushed. The bezel has 60-minute Arabic numerals every five minutes with an orange indicator dot at 60. The dial is black with the distinctive thin red line dividing it in halves, steel dauphine hands with luminous inserts, and applied luminous steel "capped" baton hour markers. There is a crimson center sweep seconds hand and a perimeter minute/seconds track. The trapezoid date aperture window is at the 3 o'clock position with a Cyclops magnifier. It has a 57-hour power reserve at full wind, and it was originally water resistant to 654 feet. The 12.5mm thick case, dial, and movement are all signed. This Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 869120 has a mechanical automatic self-winding Universal Geneve Caliber 1-69 movement. It's rhodium-plated with fausses cotes embellishment, and it's constructed with 25 jewels, an Incabloc shock absorber, and a straight-line lever escapement. It includes a monometallic balance, a self-compensating flat balance spring, and a gold micro rotor. The mechanism oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5Hz). The Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 869120 was introduced in 1961 and was produced through 1968. Famous watch designer Gerald Genta engineered the dress version of the Universal Geneve Polerouter in 1954, and it was introduced in 1955. It was originally named the "Polarouter," and was worn by SAS airline crews flying over the North Pole, who needed strong anti-magnetic protection in their wristwatches.

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