Universal Geneve Vintage Asymmetrical Polerouter Sub Orange Bezel SS

More about Vintage Asymmetrical Polerouter Sub Orange Bezel SS

This is a vintage c. late 1960's stainless steel asymmetrical Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 869124/20. It has the original stainless steel Universal Geneve bracelet with a UG signed foldover clasp, and a domed acrylic crystal. There is a screw-down crown protected by case-guard shoulders, and a solid screw-down case back. The inner case is antimagnetic and is signed with hallmarks. The 38mm diameter solid two-body case, straight lugs, and external rotating unidirectional bezel are polished/brushed. The rare orange bezel has Arabic numerals every five minutes with a white indicator triangle at 12. The dial is black with the distinctive thin red line dividing it in halves, steel dauphine hands with luminous inserts, and applied luminous "capped" baton hour markers. There is an orange center sweep seconds hand and a perimeter minute/seconds track. The trapezoid date aperture window is at the 3 o'clock position. It has a 57-hour power reserve at full wind, and it was originally water resistant to 654 feet. The 12.5mm thick case, dial, and movement are all signed. This Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 869124/20 has a mechanical automatic self-winding Universal Geneve Caliber 1-69 movement. It's rhodium-plated with fausses cotes embellishment, and it's constructed with 25 jewels, an Incabloc shock absorber, and a straight-line lever escapement. It includes a monometallic balance, a self-compensating flat balance spring, and a gold micro rotor. The mechanism oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5Hz). The Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 869120 was introduced in 1961 and was produced through 1968. Famous watch designer Gerald Genta engineered the dress version of the Universal Geneve Polerouter in 1954, and it was introduced in 1955. It was originally named the "Polarouter," and was worn by SAS airline crews flying over the North Pole, who needed strong anti-magnetic protection in their wristwatches.

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