Occasionally a brand creates a series that becomes an even more significant success than initially expected. The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moonphase “Lumen” 139.035 is part of such a series. This collection is not the norm for Lange’s traditional design aesthetic; despite that, it has garnered an incredible amount of demand from collectors—equally among devout followers of the brand, as among those looking to acquire their first watch from the Glashütte powerhouse.
History
Let us take a closer look at the evolution of the lumen series of limited editions. The original version was released in 2010 as the Zeitwerk Lumen, affectionately nicknamed “the Phantom” by the Lange fanbase. The ideology behind the original was that the brand wanted to have a luminous element in the Zietwerk lineup; however, because the jumping minutes are changing every minute, it does not allow for very much time for the Super Luminova to charge properly. To solve this, the watchmakers used a semi-transparent dial that allows the luminescent material to absorb the light needed to give off that glow we love so much. In 2013, Lange followed up with the second Lumen model, which was the Grand Lange 1 Lumen.
This version featured the same smoked sapphire dial and luminescent attributes but in the Lange 1 collection. The following year Lange introduced a new addition to the Lange 1 Family, a Grand Lange 1 Moonphase. This version featured the moon phase indicator more prominently than the previous Lange 1 Moonphase. In 2016 the brand came out with this model, the Grand Lange 1 Moonphase Lumen. Since its release, the Lange has added two more pieces to the lumen series, the Datograph Lumen and the newest Honeygold Zeitwerk Lumen. Suffice it to say, the Lumen editions are here to stay and will most likely continue to be released in different iterations as the years go on.
Design Details
There’s no question that the dial of this timepiece, alongside the execution of its complications, is the star of the show here. The luminescent moon phase draws in one’s gaze, especially the fully lit green against the black parts of the dial. The smoked sapphire allows for details of the dial side of the movement to be seen as well. Both discs for the date indication have a luminescent background behind their black numerals. The A. Lange & Söhne logo and other printing are applied to the semi-transparent dial, which create a rather charming floating effect to the text. The white gold hands all have applied Super LumiNova, adding more to the theme of this design.
The Grand Lange 1 case has a larger 41mm case size than the standard Lange 1 models; however, it has a slimmer profile under 10mm in thickness to make up for the larger diameter. Platinum is Lange’s usual preferred case material for its rarer special edition models like this, and it is finished in the brand’s standard high polish case with brushed finishing on the watch’s center case. This timepiece is fitted with a standard Lange black alligator strap with the platinum deployant buckle. The deployant is a perfect finishing addition as it helps secure the watch better when taking it on and off and makes for a great counterbalance for the heft of the platinum case.
Inner Workings
The caliber used in this timepiece is the Lange L095.4. This is the 4th iteration of this caliber since being initially designed in 2009 for the Grand Lange 1 model, but only the second version of the moon phase variation. The most significant change was using the glass moon phase disk that allows the lume to penetrate through easily. Like most Lange movements, this is a manual winding caliber with a single barrel 3-day power reserve shown with the indicator on the dial. This caliber has an impressive 446 parts and 45 rubies, seven of which are displayed housed in gold chatons.
The finishing is of the highest quality, but one thing of note is this caliber has the islands on the 3-quarter plate and could possibly be the last caliber of its kind in the Lange 1 family. All newer calibers coming from Lange lately have completely solid 3-quarter plates. This is just an educated guess, but Lange is usually very methodical when developing their new movements, and tends to build on the changes made moving forward. Regardless, this movement is a pleasure to look at and constructed soundly.
Versus The Competition
When considering what to compare this piece to, one-piece immediately comes to mind. The F.P. Journe Octa Lune Automatic Black Label is close in comparison to the Lumen in almost every possible way. The looks are incredibly similar aesthetically, with identical complications, equal levels of rarity, and even equivalent price points. Fascinatingly, even with all the similarities, they still feel quite different. The Octa Lune feels very classic and refined, and the Lumen feels a bit more modern and avant-garde. The Octa also has an automatic movement allowing the user to wear it without winding or the ability to just put it on a watch winder when not in use. They send different messages to fellow collectors, where the Journe is a bit more reserved, the Lumen commands attention.
Personality
The collector of the Lumen is an individual who wants to have something incredibly cool yet scarce. They want people to know they have a watch that many people would love to own but cannot easily attain. The Lange brand and prestige attract a collector who is very serious about watchmaking, history, and the finer details but still wants it to be noticed by those who aren’t as entrenched in the watch world. This piece will not be the owner’s only piece typically; it will belong to a person who seeks out the best of the best from many brands even, not just Lange. This Lumen could easily fit alongside the likes of Patek, Journe, or even Richard Mille and not be out of place.
Final Thoughts
The Grand Lange 1 Moonphase “Lumen” is one of the best A. Lange & Söhne timepieces by the brand, and arguably one of the best in the Lumen series. If a collector finds themselves in a position to own it, they should jump at the opportunity as it will surely find a new home quickly. Those who are lucky enough to see one in person will not soon forget, especially if they are able to see it fully illuminated.
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