In an era where reissues dominate, and collectors seem to be longing for the past, Richard Mille is pushing the watch world forward at a breakneck speed. The Richard Mille motto is “without compromise!” whether it’s new materials or unique complications, they reimagine what the modern wristwatch can be. Their entire watch line builds on the innovations of the watches that came before it. Because of this, all Richard Mille watches are effectively limited editions—including the Richard Mille RM 005 in white gold seen here, which is considered the brand’s entry-level offering. Though hyper-technical, they still have a deep respect for the history of horology. Each piece is hand-finished and assembled, representing both cutting edge and traditional watchmaking at its finest.
Introduced in 2004, the Richard Mille RM 005 in is an early model from the brand and is its first automatic watch. Inside the watch is the Calibre RM 005—the naming of watches and calibers is thankfully straightforward at Richard Mille— is an automatic movement with a semi-instantaneous date-change. However, its simplicity in purpose belies its complexity in execution. The baseplate of this movement is made of titanium, which is challenging to design and produce. The PVD treatment can be easily scuffed while assembling, and overall the process has an extremely high rejection rate. The movement was produced in a partnership with Vaucher and for every five to six thousand movements, only three thousand are deemed acceptable. While this high failure rate might be deterring to another manufacturer, Richard Mille, as stated, is unwilling to compromise.
The Caliber RM005 also includes an exclusive variable-geometry rotor. This allows the winding mechanism of the movement to be adjusted depending on the wearer’s activity level. If you plan on primarily wearing the watch around the office, it can be tuned so that very slight hand and arm movements quickly propel the rotor ensuring proper winding. However, if you are particularly active, this can be slowed down to limit the wear on components. Further, the movement is mounted to shock absorbers in the case, making for an incredibly robust watch. Despite the hefty price tag and ultra-luxury air about them, Richard Mille watches are designed to be worn hard and thoroughly enjoyed.
The tonneau case shape is classic Richard Mille, but the fact that it’s made out of white gold is non-traditional for the brand. It adds a bit of luxurious heft to the timepiece that it’s titanium siblings lack. This is either a huge plus or minus, depending on your tastes. While I love that Richard Mille challenges contemporary views of luxury with is ultra-lightweight timepieces, I also love that this watch is a bit of a contrarian to that pursuit.
All Richard Mille watches stand out, and the RM005 is about as subtle as a lime green Lamborghini, but its design is also very functional. With its ergonomic form factor and surprisingly wearable dimensions, it will sit nicely on a wide range of wrist sizes. Measuring 37.8mm across, by 45mm from top to bottom, and 11mm thick, its mass is spread evenly on the wrist via the curved tonneau shape. Its fit is further enhanced by the tight integration of the white rubber strap and lack of lugs. This gives the effect that the watch and strap are one flowing shape.
Its sapphire see-through dial is another trademark Richard Mille design choice. This look is the result of three pieces of sapphire, one at the top level that follows the case shape and allows general visibility to the hands and indices, the other underneath that to which the hour markers are applied, and yet another underneath that that houses the date wheel. This layered approach not only makes for a technical and futuristic looking watch but also makes the timepiece very legible. If you’ve seen other clear dial or skeletonized watches, you’ll know this is usually not the case.
Everything about this watch is classic Richard Mille. It has the classic Richard Mille shape and design. It possesses innovative features that improve the ownership experience. Even it’s case material of white gold is very Richard Mille in that it rebels against Richard Mille’s constant pursuit to produce lightweight watches. It bucks the trend of the brand that follows no trends in the first place.
Its wearer should be equally rebellious. When I was looking at this watch, I wondered what clothes I would wear it with and in what setting. The watch’s attitude and style are beyond classic categories. I struggled with this for a minute, and then it donned on me. If you own this watch, you don’t care about the arbitrary dress code or style “rules” that tell you what watch to where and when. You wear this watch whenever the hell you want.