The Lange 1 is arguably the most important watch in the A. Lange & Söhne collection. Characteristic of the brand’s approach to design and movement finishing, and reverent of the brand’s history, the model line has expanded to include dozens of references, each with its own idiosyncrasies and defining characteristics. Let’s take a look at the historical significance of the Lange 1, its key design attributes, and some of the most notable references.

History

A. Lange & Söhne became the most respected name in German watchmaking in the 19th century, largely due to its railroad chronometers. The brand was nationalized during World War II, and after the war ended, many thought it might not return. Following the reunification of Germany in 1990, Walter Lange, a direct descendant of the brand’s founder, re-registered the brand name in Glashütte and began the quest of rebuilding its legacy. In 1994, A. Lange & Söhne presented their inaugural collection of 4 notable pieces, with the Lange 1 as the flagship timepiece. A brilliant work of design, the Lange 1 became an icon of German watchmaking and the face of the Lange brand, and has become one of the most recognizable and diverse collections in Lange’s repertoire.

Design

Central to the Lange 1’s success was its striking design. Profoundly balanced in spite of its asymmetry, the Lange 1 locates the time display on the left side of the watch, counterbalanced by the iconic outsized date at the 2 o’clock position, power reserve at 3 o’clock, and subseconds at 4 o’clock. “It’s highly legible with no overlapping information. Every detail is perfect,” said Christopher Weiss, Watch Specialist at European Watch Company.

The outsized date is a direct callback to the clock of the Semperoper House in Dresden. The implication being that while the A. Lange & Söhne brand was new to the watch world in 1994, they had a strong historical record that was far older than their newly re-established manufacture, and that they were a substantive force with a strong heritage and ethos to pull from.

In addition to the dial, the Lange 1 established many of the other now-familiar elements of the brand’s design language. A slab-sided case with externally affixed lugs hints at Lange’s history with pocket watches. Additionally, the handset, unique typeface, and sheer weight and feel of the piece all emphasize the heritage of the brand. The same goes for the movement construction, which features a pocket-watch style ¾ plate and swan neck regulator, another nod to the brand’s history.

To many, a Lange 1 from the mid-1990s is practically indistinguishable from a new one. “There is nothing like it, and even after 30 years, there is not Lange 2, for a reason,” said Alp Sever of Langepedia. The brand got it right the first time, a testament to the careful planning and execution that went into the preparation for its 1994 introduction.

Variations

The brilliance of the Lange 1 design is that it allows for the simple integration of additional complications. A look at a small cross-section of the many versions of the Lange 1 on the market will quickly illustrate its brilliant simplicity.

One of the most popular iterations is the Lange 1 Moonphase, offered in the exact same 38.5mm case of the standard Lange 1, with a moonphase complication neatly tucked into the subsidiary seconds. Smaller variants are offered in Little Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 Moonphase at 36.5mm, and for those with larger wrists, the Grand Lange 1 and Grand Lange 1 Moonphase provide more substantial alternatives to the general production models at a heftier 41mm case size. Almost every wrist size is accommodated by this three size system.

For lovers of the Lange 1 aesthetic looking for the convenience of an automatic winding movement, the best option is likely the Lange 1 Daymatic. The left and right sides are flipped from a standard Lange 1, and the power reserve has been replaced with a retrograde pointer day. This makes for one of the coolest day-date watches on the market.

Moving to complications, the Lange 1 Time Zone is another incredible yet sometimes overlooked reference in the collection. Sporting an internal rotating World Time wheel and a matching power reserve indicator, it quietly became one of the most unique world timers on the market. Once again, the integration is far from an afterthought, with the world time functionality tucked perfectly on the perimeter of the piece for easy reading within a deceptively simple dial.

And then there’s the Lange 1 Tourbillon. In a 38.5mm case, it measures just slightly thicker than a traditional Lange 1 despite the tourbillon cage at the 5 o’clock position. The tourbillon bridge is beautifully hand finished on the front side of the dial, while the back features extensive hand engraving around the full network of bridges and movement components supporting the tourbillon staff. As with all Lange tourbillons, the capstone jewel is a diamond instead of a standard synthetic ruby. The running seconds indicator has been moved from its usual spot on the dial, replaced by the exposed tourbillon cage. The Lange 1 Tourbillon is one of the most unique tourbillon watches available, yet trades at an excellent relative value, and gives the wearer a much more complicated execution without sacrificing comfort, proportionality, and dimensions.

Continuing with the top end of the Lange 1 complications, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is another example of a masterful adaptation of the Lange 1 design language to incorporate additional complications. While the first Lange perpetual calendar, the Langematik Perpetual, follows a traditional perpetual layout, the Lange 1 Perpetual tucks each of the calendar functions within the tried and true Lange 1 layout. The Lange 1 Perpetual debuted in 2012 with outsized date, retrograde pointer day in place of the power reserve, leap year at six o’clock, month on a rotating ring, moonphase within the subsidiary seconds subdial, and the time and power reserve tucked on the right side of the dial. Its design language is instantly recognizable as a Lange 1, but up close, the full scope of the complications become apparent and let this perpetual calendar work both aesthetically and functionally. Engineering the mechanical backing to support that idealized layout poses its own mechanical challenges, and as always, Lange has performed masterfully.

For the most dressed up and ornate execution of the model family, look to the Lange 1A and Lange 1 Soiree. The brand presented the Lange 1A to mark the opening of their new manufacture building in 1998. Produced in just 100 examples with the legendary reference 112.021, the Lange 1A was made in yellow gold with a solid yellow gold guilloché dial. This was Lange’s first watch with a guilloché dial, first piece with a solid gold dial, first limited edition Lange 1, and second limited edition in general. With its relative scarcity, the Lange 1A is considered one of the ultimate Lange 1 grails and remains a collector fan favorite.

With a very similar aesthetic, the Lange Soiree references feature the same guilloché dials and come in a variety of finishes, including white gold with mother of pearl guilloché, white gold with standard guilloché, pink gold guilloché, platinum with dark tinted MOP, and a 25 piece limited edition for Dubai with a blue-tinted mother of pearl dial, executed in white gold. The Lange 1A and Lange 1 Soiree are the perfect elevated Lange 1 watches.

"If I were at the October 1994 launch, I doubt I could have predicted how versatile the Lange 1 design language would prove to be," said Paul Wittekind, a well-known collector of A. Lange & Sohne, known as @alangejourney on Instagram. "An asymmetric, non-traditional composition could hinder the development of more complicated references, yet each evolution of the Lange 1 has maintained the refinement and harmony of the original. The tourbillon, moonphase, Luna Mundi, Zeitzone, Daymatic, Lumen, perpetual calendar, and perpetual calendar tourbillon – each more complicated but just as coherent as the original."

Conclusion

Arguably the most iconic German watch on the market, the Lange 1 has become synonymous with A. Lange & Söhne as a brand. This guide should give you a good sense of the diversity of sizes, complications, and materials available in the Lange 1 range. As Weiss put it, “The Lange 1 is not a dress watch, but it can be. The Lange 1 is not a casual watch, but it can be. Its iconic dial defies all categorization. It is a collection killer... because once you have a Lange 1, you don't want to wear anything else.”