Collectors of A. Lange & Söhne often joke about wanting to wear their timepieces upside down as the movements are arguably the most stunning part of the watch, but that’s not the case with today’s discussion topic. It’s all too easy to get lost in the sparkling blue dial of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Copper Blue 205.086. The conservatively compact 39mm gem is an exquisite example of letting materials do the talking, not to mention a watch the doesn’t easily land in the camp of being more for one gender over the other.
A. Lange & Söhne is not exactly known for thin watches, but all changed in 2011. That year the brand released its first Saxiona Thin model in rose gold, and a subsequent white gold version the following year. This collection was the brand’s thinnest case created, with a case height of only 6mm roughly. The Saxonia Thin got a facelift in 2016, when the brand redesigned some of the dial elements of the whole Saxonia collection — mainly removing the half railroad track around the perimeter of the dial, and changing the hour indicators. Also, Lange introduced a new 37mm version of the Saxonia Thin alongside these dial changes, which very quickly replaced the larger size altogether. 2018 then marked the introduction of this exact reference 205.086 with the brand new Copper Blue dial color in an unexplored 39mm case size. The release has been a great success, and since then, Lange has introduced two new variants — the copper black and rose gold copper blue — but now back in a 40mm case size again.
Though the thin case was the original draw of this particular collection, the introduction of the copper blue dial changes the appeal fundamentally. The dial itself is made of solid silver, coated in goldstone that’s layered with copper oxidized crystals within the coating. This is an old Venetian technique used to simulate the shimmering effect found in natural Aventurine stone. While this is artificial rather than a natural stone — the aventurine gemstone is actually green, FYI — it won’t matter when you’re staring into the depths of this dial. It is almost like looking into the heavens upon a dark starry night where each individual star glistens against the deep blue void.
The rest of the dial is bereft of any other markings besides the crisp white painted A. Lange & Söhne logo and the words “Made in Germany.” Also, only having the hours and minutes hands with no running seconds ensures no other distractions are present when admiring its dial. The white gold case delivers the standard Lange high polish and satin finishes, and sits nicely on any wrist with a large-scale high gloss alligator strap. The strap is without stitching, continuing that very minimalist design from the watch itself.
Flipping the watch over, you’re looking at Lange’s thinnest caliber, which is still quite impressive. What stands out the most is that the caliber L093.1 still holds a 72hour power reserve. These time-only calibers are one of Lange’s simpler executions, however that doesn’t mean that they fall short in any way when it comes to the overall finishing.
Lange largely uses untreated German silver for its mainplates and bridges, as is the case here. The copper content in the material will cause it to slowly patina with age, and develop a more golden hue, which will complement the dial quite nicely. This caliber still has all the traditional Lange construction details we love, including three jewels set in the golden chatons and a hand-engraved balance cock. The movement beats 21,600 vph and is tested in 5 positions. It is a solid movement that has been used in all of the Saxonia Thin variations since its inception.
Versus The Competition
The formal dress watch has a long history with many brands, from the lowest tier to the upper echelon of watchmaking, meaning there are several watches that would fill a similar spot in one’s collection. Cartier is a brand that makes exquisite timepieces that fit this space. The Cartier Tank Cintree would be a perfect example of a simple two-hand formal dress piece like the Saxonia Thin. This Cartier is rose gold with a black dial and has a level of class that feels very similar to this Saxonia. On paper these might not exactly sound like the two would compare closely, but the deeper you examine the pair the more closely aligned they actually are. Both are uniquely designed, manual winding, no-nonsense timepieces that only display the time, and both would be appropriate to wear at any formal occasion.
When discussing who the collector is buying a watch like this Saxonia Thin Copper Blue, one must be sure to broaden the collector base to include both women and men evenly. The dial is very attractive and pretty, yet not overly feminine either. In essence, it is perfect for a watch-collecting couple, especially with the piece having an alligator strap and pin buckle, avoiding any sort of issues with resizing when swapping between wrists. Also, this piece is at home in a collection of an enthusiast that wants a dial option that is not typically seen elsewhere.
Collectors will always be drawn to the Saxonia Thin Copper Blue from A. Lange & Söhne. With its stand-out dial, unique size, and solid caliber, this piece will remain a timeless classic for years to come. It’s top-tier timepiece from a top-tier brand, and one that’s meant to be worn and appreciated.