Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G

The 20 Best Blue Dial Watches at European Watch Company

Adding watches with dial colors other than black, white, or silver to a collection is an excellent way to infuse some visual interest and diversity to your watch box. White and black dials are classic, but sometimes we just need something a little different. Pieces with blue dials give collectors a little pop of color while still remaining understated and classic. So, if you’re looking to move beyond the traditional and want just a touch of character, a blue dial is a great option. Here are 20 of our favorite blue watches at European Watch Company. 

Patek Philippe In Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P

The Patek 5236P Inline Perpetual Calendar is a watch that is notable not only for its beautiful linen-textured blue dial, but equally for its significance to Patek Philippe. The first wristwatch from the brand to display the day, date, and month on a single line, the model has been a great success for Patek. Patek Philippe has an extensive history with perpetual calendars, including an in-line perpetual calendar pocket watch that was introduced in 1975 and which served as the inspiration for the 5236P. The gradient blue dial paired with the platinum case makes for a versatile look that is dressy but still casual and that turns a grand comp Patek into a piece that can easily be worn every day. 

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G

There’s no doubt that the Patek Philippe Nautilus (the Ref. 5711 in particular) was a runaway hit for the brand. Universally loved for its iconic case design, slim profile, and beautiful blue dial, the Nautilus has been Patek’s uncontested top model and has helped extend the company’s influence far beyond the watch industry. Patek announced the end of 5711 production to the shock of many in February of 2021, but followed up with the announcement of its replacement, the 5811, in November of 2022. A bit more mature than the stainless steel 5711, the 5811 Nautilus was now crafted from white gold, adding significant weight to the watch. The new model thankfully preserved the beautiful blue dial that had made the 5711 (and previous Nautilus models) such a runaway success, now with a sunburst effect that fades to black at the periphery of the dial. 

Patek Philippe Chronogrph Ref. 5070P

The Patek Philippe 5070P is a slow-burn of a watch that has become more and more desirable as time has passed. Launched in 1998, this manually wound chronograph was controversial due to its oversized (for the time) 42mm case. Patek introduced the platinum cased variant with a blue dial in 2008 with production lasting for just two years through 2010. Due to the very limited production, fewer than 500 examples made. This extreme rarity paired with a striking blue dial color makes the 5070P one of the most desirable and collectible variants of the model.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 126506

While the Rolex Daytona is one of the most popular (and coveted) watches in production today, most people have not seen the platinum Ref. 126506 “Playtona” in the flesh. Rare and incredibly difficult to procure, the variant seen here not only has the distinctive glacier blue dial found on other platinum Rolex models, but also one of the most tasteful uses of diamonds on a men’s watch period. In fact, upon first glance, you may not even notice that the indexes are baguette markers! Beyond the striking dial, the watch is framed by a brown ceramic bezel that helps accentuate the color of the dial, and a platinum case and bracelet. For the first time ever, this new platinum Daytona now comes with a sapphire display caseback. It’s not hard to see why this is one of the most desirable and beloved Daytona variants available today!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Tiffany Blue Ref. 126000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm Tiffany Blue Ref. 126000

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126000 with a Tiffany blue dial takes one of Rolex’s simplest and purest watches, and turns it into something far more interesting and unique. While the watch has no actual connection with Tiffany & Co. and the color is technically not “Tiffany Blue”, collectors have taken to calling this Rolex the Tiffany Blue Oyster Perpetual. Given the market’s recent obsession with Rolex and Patek models that were retailed by Tiffany and featured Tiffany & Co. stamped dials, and the earth shattering Tiffany Nautilus (one of which sold at auction in excess of $6 million USD), it’s no surprise that many collectors turned to the the Ref. 126000 to get their Tiffany blue fix at a discount. No matter what your budget is, this Rolex remains one of our favorite blue-dialed pieces. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “50th Anniversary” Ref. 16202ST

Another blue-dialed icon, we would be remiss not to mention the Royal Oak on this list. Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak forever altered the watch industry, inspiring a number of other integrated bracelet steel sports models, including the Nautilus. In celebration of the 50th anniversary of the model line in 2022, Audemars Piguet presented a special edition of the Royal Oak. The reference 16202ST seen here features a 39mm stainless steel case and an automatic caliber 7121 ultra-thin automatic movement with a commemorative 50th Anniversary rotor. The model preserves the look and feel of the original ref. 5402ST while simultaneously setting the stage for the model’s next 50 years. We’ll see you in 2072 for the 100th anniversary! 

Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Ref. 15210OR.OO.A028CR.01

If you are looking for a distinctive watch with blue dial from an iconic manufacturer but the Royal Oak and Nautilus are both a bit out of your price range, the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 is a great option. A controversial collection from AP at first, the Code 11.59 has now come into its own and is appreciated by collectors for its sophisticated case design and unique crystal geometry. The model features an octagonal midcase (Royal Oak anyone?) subtly nestled between two round case bands which give the watch a more conventional look when viewed from above. This particular variant has a case fashioned from rose gold and a unique dial with a vibrant blue center and deep black outer ring that features an “explorer” style layout with 3,6,9, and 12 numerals and stick indexes. Black sheep of the AP family no more, the Code 11.59 is a design that is here to stay.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Ref. 298600-3001

An underrated model that should absolutely be on your radar, the Chopard Alpine Eagle provides pretty much anything you could want from a classic integrated bracelet sports watch. Its round bezel is studded with exposed screws (a la the Royal Oak) and a unique steel bracelet design pays homage to Chopard jewelry. The focal point of this watch, however, is the stunning blue dial. The Alpine Eagle sports a textured blue dial with a finish that spirals out from the central pivot that is said to mimic an eagle’s iris. It has a hypnotic effect that is quite special to observe in person, and for a sub-$10k watch, is a high-quality piece that rivals far more expensive options. 

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Ref. PFC905-1020001-100182

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Parmigiani Fleuerier is one of several independent Swiss brands that has grown in popularity in collectors circles in recent years, due to both design and watchmaking. Their timepieces often feature unique case designs and complications and are definitely deserving of your attention. The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is a prime example of the brand’s ethos. The model features an elongated lug profile with an engine turned bezel, but the highlight is its unique GMT complication which uses the same technology as a chronograph rattrapante to “split” the hour hand in two to display a GMT complication. This innovative feature allows the dial to remain clear and uncluttered when the GMT is not in use, while still preserving functionality when desired. This particular variant is paired with a beautiful blue dial finished with a distinctive guilloché pattern. 

A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin Manual Wind Blue Gold Flux Dial Ref. 205.086-28

It’s difficult to accurately describe the dial of the Lange Saxonia Thin Ref. 205.086-28, but we’ll give it a try! Referred to as a “gold flux dial”, the complicated substance begins as a silver substrate that is then coated with a blue coloring embedded with flecks of gold in it. Simply saying that the dial is blue doesn’t even come close to doing it justice. For a brand like Lange that tends to skew towards a more reserved dial aesthetic, the gold flux of the Saxonia truly stands out from the rest. If you ever have a chance to look at this dial under a loupe, prepare to be blown away!

A. Lange & Sohne 20th Anniversary Lange 1 Commemorative Set Ref. Ref. 101.063

If you are looking for a Lange with a more traditional blue dial for you and your significant other, consider the reference 101.063 20th Anniversary Lange 1 commemorative set. This his and hers (or his and his, hers and hers) pair of Lange 1s feature full guilloché dials (with the “hers” piece also featuring a diamond set bezel). The dial color alone distinguishes these watches from conventional Langes, but its the guilloché that really takes the watches to the next level. Only 20 of these commemorative sets were made, making each one a true rarity. This is one of the most collectible couple’s sets out there, so if you are looking to match with your significant other, the Ref. 101.063 is a great choice. 

H. Moser & Cie Venturer Concept “Arctic” Ref. 2327-0220

H. Moser & Cie is well known for its striking fume dial finishes, and while we’ve covered a number of special fume dials already, this one is truly next level. The fume dial of the Venturer Concept “Arctic Blue” fades from a bright sky blue to a deep navy at the edges, making for a beautiful visual texture and finish. Adorned on a distressed brown leather strap, this is a very versatile watch. And better yet, it is also extremely wearable at 39mm. Limited to only 100 pieces, if you’re looking to dip a toe in the independent space and want a dial that will stand out from everything else on the market, this Venturer Concept “Arctic Blue” is hard to beat. 

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Ref. 5500V/110A-B148

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Ref. 5500V/110A-B148

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph (and the Overseas collection as a whole) offers one of the deepest blue colored dials on the market today. Vacheron describes the dial as “translucent lacquered blue” and it has a unique three-dimensional effect when viewed in person. These dials almost have the appearance of enamel and this rich depth of color pairs with the steel case quite well. If you’re looking for a robust sports piece with a dial that would look equally at home on a dress piece as a steel model, this is a great pick. 

MB&F Legacy Machine LM101

MB&F makes some of the most interesting luxury watches in the independent space and the Legacy Machine LM101 really encapsulates the MB&F aesthetic. If you’ve been looking to add an MB&F to your collection, this is a great place to start. The LM101 displays the the time and running seconds on individual dials that appear to float on top of a beautiful blue baseplate, but it is the the distinctive flying balance wheel and double hairspring set beneath a heavily domed sapphire crystal that is one of the distinctive looks of the brand. Brilliantly, Max Busser (the mad genius behind the brand) has hidden the rest of the movement components turning the LM101 into a modernist interpretation of a classic piece. 

MB&F HM10 Bulldog Titanium

MB&F Horological Machine No. 10 "Bulldog" Titanium

If you want something completely out of this world, MB&F’s Horological Machine line, and the HM10 Bulldog in particular, might be just what you are looking for. As the name implies, this avant-garde piece is actually designed to look like a bulldog. The watch showcases the hours and minutes on half-globes representing the eyes of the dog, and the power reserve is brilliantly shown using the opening and closing set of jaws on the underside (chin?) of the case. Whether you like the watch or not, MB&F is willing to take chances that few others are to create something truly creative and unique. MB&F’s Horological Machine collection is as much art as it is engineering and who doesn’t love a wearable piece of art? 

Cartier Santos-Dumont “Precious Set” Ref. WGSA0050

A beautiful limited edition from Cartier, the Santos-Dumont “Precious Set” Ref. WGSA0050 features an ice-blue dial with applied indexes and a guilloché center. The original Santos was released in 1911 and was modeled on a prototype created for pioneering Brazilian aviator (and friend of Louis Cartier) Alberto Santos-Dumont. This 100 piece limited edition takes the classic design and adds a luxurious platinum case and refined dial aesthetic resulting in an extremely elegant dress watch. If you’re looking for a rare take on a classic design that can easily pass as a dress watch or a sports piece, this is an excellent choice. 

IWC Mark XVIII Le Petit Prince Ref. IW327016

The versatility of a blue dial makes it an ideal choice for an everyday watch, and for roughly $5,000, the IWC Le Petit Prince ref. IW327016 provides a great value. For a brand like IWC who’s watches often skew larger, this 40mm case size model is a great option for those with smaller wrists who still want to experience the brand’s pilot heritage and aesthetic. There are plenty of incredible options in the affordable category and there’s no need to spend a lot to get a great sunray blue-dialed watch.

F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu

If you are looking for a legendary independent that also features an iconic blue dial, look no further than the F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu. While the Chronometre Bleu is (somehow) considered the “entry level” Journe, the dial is one of the most difficult to manufacture in the entire industry. Referred to by Journe as a “Chrome Blue” dial, few know the full manufacturing process required, but what we do know is that the brand reports an incredibly high failure rate. The dial has a sort of chameleon quality, taking on vastly different coloring and depth in different lighting environments and settings. This is easily one of the most impressive blue dials on the market. 

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Summer Blue” Ref.

A common struggle for dive watch enthusiasts with small (or smaller than average) wrists is finding a professional-grade watch that is still wearable even when not wearing a wetsuit. An excellent option for this type of collector is the ref. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Summer Blue”. At 39.5mm, this piece is far more comfortable than many of the 42mm+ divers that are popular today and the “Summer Blue” dial features a subtly grained finish and gradient blue coloring that make it stand out for your standard Submariner. In spite of the more modest sizing, this watch is still equipped with 600 meters of water resistance. The combination of depth rating and wearability is a true rarity for a piece in this price range. 

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