While round watches still dominate the majority of the luxury watch market, square and rectangular cases have a completely different identity that appeals to watch lovers looking for something different. Whether or not rectangular and square watches are for you (most collectors either hate them or love them), a number of the most recognizable watch designs of all time come in these shapes. From the Cartier Tank to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, square and rectangular watches are an important part of horological history. Today, we are taking a look at eighteen of the best square watch and rectangular watches that you should know about. Let’s dive in!
TAG Heuer Monaco Caliber 11 Ref. CAW211P.FC6356
In the modern Tag Heuer collection, there is arguably no more recognizable and historically significant design than the Monaco. Popularized by the legendary 1971 movie Le Mans where it featured prominently on the wrist of Steve McQueen’s character, the Monaco has been a classic ever since. This variant comes in the traditional configuration sporting a blue dial with red accents, just like the original worn by Steve McQueen decades ago. The Monaco encapsulates Tag Heuer’s relationship with motor sports and has maintained a cult following ever since its introduction.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the most popular and widely recognized rectangular watches in the industry. The watch was originally designed back in the early 1930s as a sports watch for polo playing British military officers stationed in India. While the innovative flipping case was designed to protect the watch’s crystal from damage during matches, the Reverso is now more commonly considered to be a dress watch. The Reverso has a beautiful, traditional aesthetic, but JLC has introduced a number of exceptional bolder designs over the past few years that blend a traditional layout on one face with something more modern on the reverse. This particular variant features a gradient blue dial on the front side and a skeleton chronograph on the rear. A tasteful reimagination of a legend, this reference is sure to be a future classic.
Cartier Santos Large Ref. WSSA0018
The Santos de Cartier was initially designed in the early 1900s for Alberto Santos-Dumont, a pioneering Brazilian aviator and close friend of Louis Cartier. In the century-plus since its introduction, the square case Santos collection has become a staple in Cartier’s catalog. While the Tank Must is likely the brand’s most iconic rectangular design, its the Cartier Santos with its sporty bracelet and more versatile aesthetic, that we really love. This watch is not only a practical option, it also played an important role in the creation of the sports watch category as a whole!
Cartier Tank Cintree “Le Paris Watch Club” Ref. WGTA0122
While the Cartier Tank Louis is the archetypal rectangular dress watch, for our guide we have chosen to highlight a Tank with a bit more personality and flair. The Tank Cintrée “Le Paris Watch Club” doesn’t look like any other Cartier, and that’s part of its charm. Building on the curvaceous Cintrée’s design ethos, this special edition was limited to only 6 pieces in platinum and features a beautiful dark blue fume dial, white stylized numerals (instead of the iconic Cartier Roman numerals), and a red ruby cabochon. Blue, white, and red, just like the colors of the French flag. This watch is simple yet sophisticated and rare enough to serve as a one watch collection.
Hermes H08
Hermes’ watch division has really elevated its game in recent years. For a luxury handbag retailer, they make one hell of timepiece! The H08, which debuted in 2021, blends square and circular components in a way that is unique and attractive. While the case itself is a scalloped square, it also has a round dial which softens the design of the watch in a distinctive way. Whereas many fashion houses make watches that don’t hold a candle to the handbags or shoes or whatever item they built their names on, the H08 is an impressive watch that deserves a place in any collection.
Patek Philippe 10-Day Tourbillon Ref. 5101P-010
Patek Philippe Tourbillons are not common – and neither are rectangular Pateks – so to get both in one package is a rare privilege. The Ref. 5101P-010 10-Day Tourbillon in platinum is a brilliant piece of complicated watchmaking that combines a 10-day power reserve and a tourbillon (tourbillons suck up lots of energy and often result in a lower power reserves) all within a rectangular Art Deco package. Since rectangular pieces aren’t the most sought after Pateks, this watch is actually a great value (if we can say that about a piece with a $150k+ price tag….). While it is not a cheap watch by any stretch of the imagination, the same piece in a round case would likely cost twice as much. This watch is a rare steal!
Patek Philippe Ref. 5940G-001
This next piece isn’t quite square or rectangular– it’s a TV shaped watch! The 5940 is another example of excellent value in Patek’s catalog. Far rarer than its round counterparts, the 5940 was introduced back in 2012 and is powered by Patek’s legendary automatic micro-rotor caliber 240Q. With Patek, one would expect that a rare variant would result in a higher price tag, but the 5940 remains one of the most accessible perpetual calendars in all of Patek’s archive. This reference is another “Patek bargain”.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Ref. 82035/000G-B735
Another design pulled from deep in a brand’s archives, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 takes collectors back to the retro Art Deco era of the Roaring Twenties. This beautiful reference with its distinctive cushion case was originally intended for drivers who could easily view the skewed dial with their hands on the wheel. Where this piece really shines is in the details. The silver dial features a subtle texture, there are bold Breguet numerals, a vintage inspired handset, and the crown is positioned at 2 o’clock on the case (which is actually 12 o’clock on the offset dial!). This piece is extremely unique, yet isn’t loud or in your face. It’s one of the most interesting and tasteful watches that you can buy today. Vacheron got the balance just right with this one.
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto
A titanium sports watch developed by renowned racecar driver and former Patek Philippe employee Laurent Ferrier, the Sport Auto is one of the brand’s flagship models. This piece is all about finishing, featuring mirror beveling on the case and bracelet (which is very difficult to get right on titanium) and a subtle texture on the bold blue dial which has more little details than we have time to list! The key to Laurent Ferrier’s success has been his ability to bring something truly new to the market. Rather than recreating the classics, Laurent Ferrier has instead created a design language that is entirely his own. These fine details are truly what sets his watches apart.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Sketch Dial Ref. 103672
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line is the culmination of the brand’s prowess in both horological engineering and design. This particular variant, the “Sketch Dial”, pays homage to the original designs penned by renowned designer Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, which were used to create the Octo Finissimo back in 2012. This special anniversary edition makes for an extremely unique look that you won’t find elsewhere in the industry.
Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Ref. 1-37-02-06-02-35
One of the most under-the-radar creations from Glashutte Original, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date ref. 1-37-02-06-02-35 is a square chronograph in the same vein as the Heuer Monaco discussed earlier. This model incorporates a number of interesting additional functions not found in the Monaco, however, including a panorama date window, a 12-hour counter on a wheel at 12, and a power reserve indicator in the left sub-register of the chronograph. To make things even better, the chrono is a flyback. While each of these functions and complications on their own wouldn’t be particularly unique, when put together in a unique square package, this makes for a really interesting watch.
H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Watch “Final Edition” Vantablack Ref. 5324-1205
Within the world of controversial conversation starters, the 50-piece limited edition H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Watch “Final Edition” Vantablack is one of the most hotly debated. Often referred to as the “mechanical Apple watch”, on first glance the ref. 5234-1205 looks suspiciously like a glitching smart watch. Flip over the rectangular DLC coated stainless steel case, however, and you are met with a beautifully finished manual wind Moser in-house movement! Key to the charade, the subsidiary seconds display is made to look like the classic Apple “pinwheel of death” and is unlike any other sub-seconds I can think of. Check this minimalist watch out if you want to confuse your friends and coworkers and cause a commotion in the office! Just don’t expect Siri to save you…
Richard Mille RM016 Extra Flat
The Richard Mille RM016 is an anomaly in the Richard Mille catalog. Whereas the majority of RM’s watches feature tonneau cases, the RM016 is a ultra-thin rectangular piece. These rare pieces feature all of the fundamental attributes of RM design, including the smoked sapphire dial and stylized numerals that RM enthusiasts love, but with a twist. If you like the look of RM, but want something even more unique, the RM016 is an excellent option, and a really cool watch. You’re not likely to see these often!
A. Lange & Sohne Cabaret Ref. 107.031
The Ref. 107.031 Cabaret is an insane value proposition, both within the context of A. Lange & Sohne and in the broader watch industry as a whole. The Cabaret brings Lange’s distinctly German flavor to a tank-like rectangular timepiece. These watches are among the most affordable Lange references despite providing pretty much everything you get from a standard round Lange. A beautifully finished rectangular movement (designed specifically for this model), distinctive Germanic design, substantial presence on the wrist, and a precious metal case all make this wristwatch undeniably Lange. Plus, this piece is really well priced against other high end dress watches from small production makers.
Lang & Heyne Georg
Following a similar design brief as the Cabaret, the Lang & Heyne Georg is a fascinating watch you have likely never seen before. Lang & Heyne is a tiny manufacturer based in Dresden, Germany, that produces extremely high quality pieces in tiny quantities. This particular piece, the Georg, is the brand’s rectangular offering with a movement that steals the show. The movement geometry has been designed so that each and every component can be seen through the sapphire caseback with mirror finishing executed by hand on all the bridge components. This is an impressive level of finishing not found on pieces from much, much larger watch brands!
Rolex Cellini Prince Ref. 54423/9
Continuing with the theme of under-appreciated watches, the Rolex Cellini Prince ref. 5443/9 is perhaps Rolex’s most avant-garde offering. The quirky piece features a manually wound movement with an exhibition caseback (yes, an exhibition caseback on a Rolex that isn’t a Daytona!!). While this piece definitely isn’t for everyone, it has a character completely its own and looks unlike any other Rolex. The hours minutes subdial sits just above the small seconds subdial. This is a watch that will get plenty of comments and make you stand out to just about anyone. Consider yourself warned!
Breguet Classique Ref. 3490
If you are looking for a classic rectangular watch at an accessible price, the Breguet Classique Ref. 3490 is a great option. We’d argue that Breguet watches are undervalued relative to their quality and craftsmanship. Combine this with a rectangular case profile, and you get a truly affordable, high quality, precious metal dress watch from a premier brand with great history. You will struggle to find a better quality watch for the money.
IWC Andreas Huber 150th Anniversary Ref. IW255501
This last piece is one of our favorites. A “modified square”, the IWC ref. IW255501 is a limited edition of 150 pieces (of which just 15 were cased in rose gold) to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the brand’s relationship with retailer Andreas Huber. The Munich retailer has something of a checkered past (we’ll let you connect the dots), but they did get things right with the IWC partnership. This beautiful piece has a retro vibe to it and an extremely warm cushion case style.