Overlooked: Gérald Genta’s Legacy, Reimagined in Three Watches You Can Wear Right Now

Some names don’t need an introduction. Gérald Genta isn’t just a designer. He’s the architect of modern watch taste. The Royal Oak. The Nautilus. The Ingenieur. But his legacy goes way beyond the 1970s steel sports watch boom. Genta’s influence shows up in places both expected and weird: from retrograde dials to two-tone cases, from brutalist bezels to silky integrated bracelets.

This isn’t a history lesson. It’s a Genta-inspired moodboard for the present moment. These three watches channel different sides of his legacy, whether you’re gearing up for fall travel or just squeezing in a little late-season wrist fun.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 SS Black Dial

The Ingenieur has been part of IWC’s lineup since the 1950s, but it wasn’t until Gérald Genta reimagined it in the 1970s that it really stood out. His take, the Ingenieur SL Ref. 1832, introduced a bold new design language: integrated bracelet, chunky case, and five exposed bezel screws that made the watch look like it belonged in a lab, a spaceship, or maybe both. It was IWC’s answer to the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but it never got quite the same level of mainstream attention.

That changed in 2023 when IWC finally brought Genta’s version back with the release of the Ingenieur Automatic 40. It was one of the most buzzed-about launches of the year, not just because it honored Genta’s design, but because it refined it. The size hit a sweet spot. The bracelet was smoother and more wearable. The finishing was better than ever. Collectors took notice.

The black dial version in particular is clean and confident. It’s the least shouty of the variants and maybe the easiest to wear as a daily. If the Royal Oak feels too expected and the Nautilus too out of reach, the Ingenieur offers that same Genta DNA in a slightly more personal, off-the-beaten-path way. You get the story, the shape, and the swagger without the baggage.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15451OR

Now for something unapologetically indulgent. The Royal Oak is Gérald Genta’s most famous creation, and this version turns the volume all the way up. The 37mm rose gold case is already bold, but the bezel is where things really go off-script. Set with eight different shades of brilliant-cut orange sapphires, each one carefully graded from pale to deep amber in a seamless gradient.

This isn’t just decoration. It’s Genta maximalism. The octagonal bezel, visible screws, and tapisserie dial are all here, but now they’re surrounded by a wash of fire-colored gemstones that feel both precise and over-the-top. The look is cohesive but loud, luxurious but playful, and completely unbothered by anyone asking for subtlety.

This is the kind of Royal Oak for someone who already owns the classic version and wants to see how far the design can stretch. It’s fun, confident, and wears its legacy like a statement earring.

Gérald Genta Quattro Retro Chronograph

The name says it all. This is a watch from the Genta brand during his wildly creative phase, the one where he left behind integrated steel to explore jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and unconventional case materials like tantalum.

The Quattro Retro Chronograph is weird in the best way. It’s complication-forward, design-heavy, and completely unafraid to get a little theatrical. The asymmetrical dial layout, with retrograde hands and jumping indicators, feels intentionally offbeat and visually chaotic but in a a good way. Tantalum gives the case a bluish-gray contrast against the warm rose gold, adding both weight and nuance.

This is the Genta watch for people who already own the Royal Oak and want something more playful. It’s a flex, yes, but also a reminder that watchmaking doesn’t always have to be so serious.

Genta’s legacy isn’t just in famous silhouettes. It’s in the attitude. Unapologetic. Innovative. A little flashy, a little strange. Whether you’re going for understated steel or full-blown gemset glam, these three watches prove the Genta spirit is alive, well, and still evolving.