There are certain elements of watches that capture us differently. For some, you may be really into the finishing and materials. Others may have their own favorite complications and dial layouts. For some, it’s the chase of a unique movement that engages them. On the other hand, if you find yourself pulling a little from each of those columns, then Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Repetition Minutes 151.T.67.S should certainly check all the right boxes.
History
The highlight of this particular watch is its very unique—and mechanically complex—complication, the minute repeater. This is something that was first introduced to watches in the late 17th century in England. While there have been advancements in how these are produced, they still operate much the same as they did centuries ago. By engaging the release on the side of the case, a series of chimes sound out.
For the hours, you generally have a lower tone, and a higher note for the minutes. Combine the two, and you’ve got the quarter hours marked out. Once triggered, one simply listens to the series of tones, and you can tell the time without once glancing at the dial. So, you too can tell the time in the dark just like a noble would have done in the past, without relying on anything other than your ears.
This particular complication is something that Jaeger LeCoultre has been producing since 1870, creating a variety that range from the simple two-tone chimes we’ve described here, all the way up to ones that can play a melody. They’ve not settled back and just figured out which watch design could fit this complication. Rather, they’ve pushed themselves, and in 1994 actually introduced the first minute repeater Reverso – an artistic feat of engineering to be sure.
Design Details
The obvious draw of the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Repetition Minutes is, of course, the minute repeater. As wonderfully unique as that is, this watch has a good deal going on for it that further sets it apart. The 44mm titanium case is sublime, with just a PVD coating to darken its finish. This simplicity allows you to focus in on the very open-worked dial. It’s worth noting that this is the most scarce variant of the repeater ever made, as far as we can tell. Unlike other editions, this black and orange combination was offered in a series of only five pieces.
Open dials can be a bit of a two-edged sword. On one hand, they can show off some very interesting parts of a mechanical movement that would otherwise be hidden. The other hand holds the problem that these dials can often be difficult to read, as hands can get lost in all of the mechanics. Jaeger LeCoultre avoids this with two brilliant design choices. First, most of the movement (and the small slices of dial that exist) are done in a dark argent finish mirroring the case. Over the top of that, we have a bright orange applied to the numerals, indices, and skeletonized baton hands.
The use of this bright color – more commonly seen on safety vests – might feel like a surprise in a watch of this nature, but we categorize it as a delightful one. The subtle pop of color elevates the watch while it also ensures that legibility is maintained. In a counterintuitive way, it also helps the eye pick out the parts of the movement that are not in the dark finish, giving additional elements for the eye to explore, and the curious mind to puzzle out what, exactly, it is those parts do.
Inner Workings
Inside the watch, and easily viewable from both the front and back, is the Master Minute Repeater caliber 947. This movement is decorated and has the aforementioned rhodium plating darkening it down. Fortunately, it has an anti-shock system built in as well, protecting the components. You might be wondering about the relatively low frequency of the movement (21,600 vph or 3Hz). That is part of what enables this movement to deliver an incredible 15-day power reserve. That’s right – you could set this down, come back two weeks later, and it would still be running.
Where you are in that power reserve, in terms of energy stored, is viewable on the dial, with the retrograde indicator that is on the lower left side. So, then, what is that indicator on the lower right of the dial? That’s another unique thing you probably have not seen in your watch box yet – a torque meter. This is informing you of the torque that the spring is applying on the movement. Keep it in the safety range, and accuracy is maintained, even with the lower beat rate.
It should also be noted that the caliber 947 includes the Jaeger LeCoultre ‘crystal gong’ innovation. What is that, you ask? No, it’s not a gong made out of a crystal – it instead refers to how it’s attached. Rather than having the gong attached to the watch case, it is instead attached to the crystal on the case back or over the dial. Why risk a metal gong banging away on sapphire? This allows the watch case to be sealed for waterproofness without sacrificing the sound quality.
Versus The Competition
As rare of a complication as the minute repeater is, so too is the competition. That said, there are a few other brands who do have the skill and knowhow to be able to create such a masterpiece. If you like the large and sporty looks of the Jaeger LeCoultre we’ve presented here, then you might also consider the Patek Philippe 5074P Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar. Along with the bold looks and the melodic chimes, you’re picking up even more complications via the perpetual calendar and moonphase, as well as an automatic winding system with a micro rotor.
On the other hand, if you’d prefer to simplify things a bit and head into a more classic dress watch look, then the F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine. This watch is going to be one of the most – if not the most – comfortably wearable minute repeater watches you will come across. This is in large part due to its quite thin case (just 8.65mm) paired with the 40mm diameter. For it to be this thing, F.P. Journe had to create an entirely new type of gong – a flat one – which not only takes up less space, it can produce a louder and clearer tone. Oh, and for those who want to explore different materials in their movements, the steel case here conceals the 18k rose gold of the movement, cleanly visible through the case back.
Personality
To us, the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Repetition Minutes is the Henry Cavill of watches. By that, we mean the watch (like Cavill) is big and tough on the outside, but that exterior is serve up something that is way more refined than the outer elements might otherwise suggest. In that way, Jaeger LeCoultre manages to take a complication that might otherwise seem a bit too stuffy, and inject some bolder looks. This is only further served by the use of orange over the dark palette. This creates its own dichotomy as well, with a reserved background offset by a bright flash of color.
Final Thoughts
In the modern era, a minute repeater is absolutely not necessary. As a masterful display of what an artisan can create, however, it shines. Watchmaking is a craft that can be sublime, even for something that is – ultimately – a tool we carry with us daily. To work at the craft to be able to put together a minute repeater, and have that bit of machinery create melodic chimes? That is a pinnacle of artistry, and one we are full behind. While some implementations of such a complication could be viewed as conservative or “old fashioned”, the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Repetition Minutes feels thoroughly modern, while still maintaining a traditional sensibility.
See More of the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Repetition Minutes 151.T.67.S
Visit Europeanwatch.com
