When it comes to new watch releases, we very rarely find ourselves surprised by what comes from Rolex. By that, we mean that there are often predictions of what we may see — say, new color schemes or a different material — that turn out more often than not to be spot on. Rolex has a track record of producing timeless designs that are consistently popular, so why rock the boat? With the return of in-person trade shows and a revived excitement in the industry, Rolex stepped out of line with this left-handed GMT-Master II 12672VTNR, rocking more than a few boats.
History
Rolex is certainly no stranger to left-handed, or Destro (which is Italian for ‘right’, not a reference to the G.I. Joe character) watches. The earliest known example that has been unearthed was a one-off that they produced for none other than Charlie Chaplin in 1952. After that, there were Destro Tudors ordered by the French Navy in the 1970s. More recently — and more germaine to this watch — two watches came up for auction in 2018, both ref. 6542 GMT-Master examples. In other words, while there is a rarity to a left-handed Rolex, they have appeared in the lineup over the years.
There is another detail with this Rolex GMT-Master II that we should talk about from a historical perspective, and that is the bezel. Over the years, Rolex watches have featured a number of materials, most commonly Bakelite and aluminum. In 2007, Rolex introduced the Cerachrom bezel, made of ceramic. That first Cerachrom bezel was just black, but in 2013, the blue-black combo (aka the Batman) arrived on the scene, followed by the return of the Pepsi bezel in 2014. The green and black combination offered on the 126720VTNR is a first for the brand, and one that works quite well. This one has yet to pick up a common nickname, but it feels to us like it’s a thoroughly Rolex color scheme, picking up on their corporate color palette.
Design Details
On one hand, the new GMT-Master II is precisely what we’ve come to know and appreciate from the model, in a new color configuration. On the other hand, it’s meant to be on the “other” hand. For something as “simple” as flipping a crown (and date display) position, the watch does feel particularly refreshed. As with prior GMT-Master II models, you have a bi-color bezel, a cyclops over the date window, and the ability to have the watch with either an oyster or a jubilee bracelet.
The crown being on the left is the obvious callout for the design, but we are drawn just as strongly to the green-on-black color scheme. We view it as a more subtle approach to the day/night demarcation on the bezel. Yes, the Pepsi bezel is iconic, and the Batman is a wonderful shot of color. Here, the green feels like just the right amount of color on an otherwise black-dialed sports watch. It’s there to be a little different, but it’s not so bright that it distracts the eye.
Inner Workings
Inside the GMT-Master II 12672VTNR, you’ll find the same movement that was in prior GMT-Master II watches — the caliber 3285. This movement carries a COSC rating, offers up a 70-hour power reserve. It also runs at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz), while offering resistance to magnetism, temperature changes, and shocks. In other words, everything you would want for a watch that is ready to travel the world with you. Of course, there’s also the engineering acrobatics that had to occur to move the crown and date display to the left side of the case. Winding and setting the watch with your left hand will no doubt take some getting used to, but it will also remind you that you’re in some rarified air with this Destro Rolex.
Versus The Competition
When you consider competition for a “left-handed” watch, the field narrows pretty quickly. Given that only 10% of the population is left-handed, making watches for that group of people (of whom this writer is one) doesn’t make the most sense. Still they are out there. The alternative for this GMT-Master II that comes the most quickly to mind would be the Tudor Pelagos LHD. While it is a simpler movement, it still carries a COSC rating (and 70-hour power reserve), and the bezel insert is ceramic. Here, though, you do lose the GMT complication, and just the crown is moved to the left, while the date window stays in it’s traditional 3 o’clock position.
Outside of the Rolex/Tudor family, another brand with consistent Destro options would be Panerai. One such example would be the Panerai Luminor Marina Destro. In terms of recognizable designs, it’s hard to argue against the sandwich dial construction of a Panerai, as well as the flip-lock crown guards. On a 44mm watch, this would obviously be a concern about digging into your wrist (if you wear a watch on the left wrist), but with this Destro configuration, that’s no longer something to worry about.
Personality
A stainless steel sports watch from Rolex carries with it its own aura of history and status, which many wearers gravitate towards, for it reflects where they are at in life. Rolex designs are tried and true, and the GMT-Master II 12672VTNR fits neatly into that, hitting all of the design requirements of its predecessors. In other words, this watch is both a classic and timeless look, while managing to throw in a bit of unexpected quirkiness with its left-hand setup. Over the top of this, a sophisticated take on color accents elevates the model to at least the level of it’s flashier Pepsi and Batman brethren, if not even higher.
Final Thoughts
A left-handed watch is a bit of a risk for any brand. Yes, we left-handers are out there in the world, but is that a niche that Rolex wants to go for? Obviously, they do, but we believe right-handed owners (that wear the watch on their left wrist) would see obvious benefits. For one, you would not have to worry about the crown digging into your wrist as your hand moves about. Another potential benefit is that the crown is a lot less likely to get hit, meaning a lower chance of shock traveling into the movement. Finally, whatever wrist it’s worn on, the Rolex Left-Handed GMT-Master II will stand out as being something different from the norm, without needing to put a piece of haute horlogerie on the wrist that is more art piece than tool. While the Rolex Left-Handed GMT-Master II may not be for everyone, we are definitely in the camp of being a fan of this particular watch.
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