The Roundup: the “New Calibres" Edition

The Roundup

Published by: Kathleen McGivney

View all posts by Kathleen McGivney

Date: 2/6/2026

Featured image for The Roundup

Each week, EWC will be gathering horological industry news, cultural conversations and moments surrounding our favorite topic: timepieces. Happy Friday; here’s what’s on our watch. 

Time, as they say, flies, and it's somehow February already. We started the month with the GRAMMY awards, and it continued on with new releases and some interesting industry news.

New releases

Audemars Piguet released quite a few new creations at their AP Social Club event in Switzerland. 

One of the highlights that had the entirety of the watch internet talking was the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, a departure from the silhouettes that have become the recognizable design language of the manufacture. The Neo Frame features Audemars Piguet’s first automatic jumping hour movement, with the newly created in-house calibre 7122. It has a vintage-inspired but very modern design, taking inspiration from a historical timepiece from 1921. The case is in pink gold, with elegant Art Deco lines tapering into pointed lugs, and a black PVD-treated sapphire crystal with two apertures for the jump hour and minute displays. 

Another highlight of Audemars Piguet’s releases was the 150 Heritage pocket watch, a highly complicated timepiece that showcases the brand’s command of complications and finishing. The movement, the new Calibre 1150, has been described as ultra-complicated, with 30 complications, 47 functions, and a Universal Calendar display on the caseback that is independent of the main movement. But AP didn’t stop at mechanical complications - there are many artistic techniques on display here, such as Grand Feu enameling, a handmade chain, and hand engraving on the platinum case.

Audemars Piguet also introduced a new openworked perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 7139, and a new chronograph movement for its 38mm Royal Oak, Calibre 6401, again highlighting the brand’s commitment to fine watchmaking and its mastery of finishing techniques.

The full list of AP’s latest releases can be found on their website here.

Vacheron Constantin released a new Overseas Tourbillon, combining a deep red dial with a titanium case for the first time in an Overseas model.

It’s powered by the ultra-thin in-house Calibre 2160, an automatic movement with a peripheral oscillating weight, which contributes to its thin profile. The timepiece comes complete with two rubber straps and a titanium bracelet, all of which are easily interchangeable without the use of tools.  

De Bethune and Louis Vuitton introduced a collaboration, the LVDB-03 Louis Various Project, which brings together two brands for two timepieces: a clock and a wristwatch.

The project is part of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, which seeks to support new generations of watchmaking talent. The LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius wristwatch, powered by calibre DB2507LV, displays local and home time on a multi-disc display and a rotating GMT day/night sphere. The Sympathique function allows the watch to be automatically rewound and synchronized with the LVDB-03 Sympathique clock when placed in its cradle.

Chopard released the Zagato Lab One Concept in collaboration with the Italian automotive atelier.

The watch is very lightweight, at only 43.20 grams, including the strap. It features a tubular case construction that takes inspiration from automotive themes, and is powered by the chronometer-certified in-house calibre L.U.C 04.04-L.

Watch spotting at the GRAMMYs

Awards season continued with the GRAMMY Awards, and as with most red carpets these days, the watch spotting netted some interesting choices. 

Cartier was the brand of choice for multiple award winners Bad Bunny and Kendrick Lamar, with the former wearing a Tortue in yellow gold and the latter in a Tank Americaine in white gold with diamonds. 

Other highlights included Shaboozey in a recently released two-tone Piaget Polo 79, Pusha T in a Rolex Day-Date 40 in white gold with sapphire accents and diamond-encrusted dial, Pharrell Williams in a Richard Mille RM 74-02, Busta Rhymes in an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in pink gold, and Jeff Goldblum in a Blancpain Villeret Squelette in white gold. (Not gonna lie, we also loved to see Kaytranada rocking the hell out of a Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas.)

Industry happenings

Breitling became the latest watch brand to join the Formula 1 party, partnering with the Aston Martin Aramco F1 team as their Official Watch Partner. The partnership, a global, multi-year deal, kicked off with the introduction of the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team timepiece, which celebrates Breitling’s return to racing. 

In a move that surprised many, Stephen Forsey stepped down from the board of Gruebel Forsey, the brand he co-founded with Robert Gruebel in 2004. The brand confirmed that Forsey is no longer on the company’s board of directors and will no longer have a role in the day-to-day operations of the brand, though he does remain a significant minority shareholder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre showcased their latest capsule collection in their The Collectibles line at their flagship boutique in NYC. The Collectibles are comprised of outstanding vintage examples of early watches from the brand. The current collection consists of 8 outstanding and rare Reversos, including one dating from 1931, the year that the Reverso debuted. This is an ongoing effort from the brand to find museum-quality vintage pieces, fully restore them to working order, and find collectors who share their passion for the brand’s extensive history.

Images courtesy Adam Craniotes

The '80s came alive in NYC at an event celebrating Artisans de Geneve’s latest creation for tennis legend Andre Agassi. Invited press and friends of the brand were treated to an exhibition match with Agassi, after which a panel discussion was held between Mr. Agassi and Artisans de Geneve founder, Johnathan Isaac Levy, moderated by legendary director and sports fan Spike Lee.

Mr. Agassi chose a Rolex Daytona as his canvas, and through discussions with Artisans de Geneve, he settled on an oxidized titanium case with a skeletonized movement visible through a gradient sapphire dial and a custom rotor featuring his initial. The subdials have been rendered in his signature color, Hot Lava®. According to Mr. Agassi, “Hot Lava® is more than a colorway, it’s a statement; more than a pair of tennis shoes with my identity. I helped design it back in the 1990s at a time when tennis wasn’t ready for that kind of expression."

Overall, the process took 126 weeks, resulting in a one-of-kind timepiece weighing in at just 78 grams, light enough to play a blistering tennis match without even knowing it’s on your wrist.

Adam Craniotes contributed to this story.

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