In 2019, Audemars Piguet made a big splash in the watch industry with the launch of the Code 11.59, an entirely new collection for the brand. “When it debuted, the Code 11.59, the brainchild of then-CEO François-Henry Bennahmias, was meant to offer an alternative to the iconic, yet ubiquitous Royal Oak, which had all but taken over the conversation at Audemars Piguet,” said Adam Craniotes, watch journalist and founder of the RedBar watch collector community.

At the time of its launch, it had a mixed reception. “Every element was finished to the exacting standards of the maison, yet when added together there was something off, for lack of a better word. Was it a dress watch? Certainly the thin hands and indices, with nary a fleck of lume, and scant 30M of water resistance fit that bill,” said Craniotes. “Its generous dimensions and complications, such as a chronograph, made a better case for it being a sport watch, but no matter, the Code 11.59 was missing an identity.”

Today, as a flagship collection in the brand’s history of non-conformist, forward-looking approaches to watch design, the Code 11.59 continues to evolve with more references and complications as the brand adapts the striking design language to new models.

The Launch of a New Collection

The Code 11.59 collection takes the latter portion of its name from the minute before midnight, metaphorically signaling Audemars Piguet’s continual drive towards innovation, transition and adaptation during a time of change. “Code” is an acronym for Challenge, Own, Dare, and Evolve— a further reflection on AP’s values and the values of its collectors. Both naming elements fed into the energy that surrounded the launch of the new line as the brand presented the collection as a truly novel take on watchmaking. 

Upon first glance, the Code 11.59 looks like a fairly conventional round watch with a thin bezel, stylized numerals, and a pencil handset. From a distance, these watches just look like beautiful timepieces. But up close, there are so many distinctive details to obsess over in design, architecture, and finishing. 

The side profile reveals an octagonal midcase, which is a direct reference to the brand’s iconic Royal Oak. While on many watches the midcase is an afterthought, the side visual is a focal point of this watch’s aesthetic presentation. On many models, this midcase is fashioned in a contrasting metal, for a unique take on the two-tone aesthetic. Case details continue with skeletonized lugs flaunting high polish on the facets of the inner hollowed lugs and into the octagonal midcase. The sheer quality of the finishing is something to behold. 

The details don’t end with the case. Audemars Piguet created a compound curve on the crystal surface with two different curve geometries, which creates extreme clarity when viewing the dial. This level of detail in a crystal is uncommon and creates additional visual interest when viewed from the side.

Arguably, the best aspect of this collection is that the underlying design makes an excellent canvas for a host of complications and configurations. Here’s a look at the major models in the collection.

Code 11.59 Selfwinding 

The entry point to the collection is the classic time-only iteration. In its most streamlined form, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding features a simple dial layout, often in a solid color, sometimes with guilloché or smoked fumé finishes. The initial models had a date window at 4:30, which was subsequently relocated to a traditional 3 o'clock. The simple (but not simplistic) selfwinding variant is an excellent option for someone looking for a classic time-only watch with interesting design details that pack considerable personality. This family is available in 41mm and 38mm offerings to fit a variety of preferences and wrist sizes. Even in a time-only variant, the Code 11.59 shines.

Code 11.59 Chronograph

Adding a complication to the time-only variant, the Code 11.59 chronograph tucks three registers into a beautiful guilloché, fumé, or solid dial, all while preserving the fundamental design language of the collection. The Code 11.59 Chrono was also a milestone with the launch of the caliber 4401. It provides an in-house self-winding flyback chronograph movement with a quick jumping date mechanism, no small feat to accomplish. 

Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar

One of the most celebrated models in the collection is the Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar, one of the most modern perpetuals on the market. On the version with an aventurine dial, the beautiful interplay between the sparkle of aventurine and a calendar complication with a moonphase makes this watch feel almost otherworldly. In recent collections, Audemars Piguet has included guilloché and openworked variants of the same perpetual base. 

Code 11.59 Tourbillon

The Code 11.59 tourbillon variations are powered by an automatic flying tourbillon caliber, the 2950. Dial variations include guilloché, stones such as sodalite, ruby, malachite, and onyx, and openwork dial versions. Audemars Piguet brings their high horology chops to the collection, highlighting a complicated extension of the underlying Code 11.59 aesthetic with exceptional mechanical timekeeping expertise.

Code 11.59 Star Wheel 

The Star Wheel is an iconic demonstration of Audemars Piguet’s interpretation of a wandering hours complication, which was first introduced in 1991. Reimagining the complication for new audiences within the Code 11.59 lineup has breathed new life into the Star Wheel. Current models feature exciting aventurine accents on the dial and exploit a unique timekeeping display that complements the modernist stance of the collection overall. 

"I've been a big fan of the Code 11.59 series for a while now, and this Star Wheel is my absolute favorite," said Rob Reustle, Watch Specialist at European Watch Co. "Instead of just recreating their original version from the 80’s, AP reimagined the Star Wheel for the modern era now with a ceramic mid-case and blue aventurine dial that really compliments the wandering hours display. Such a compelling watch!"

A Modern Classic?

The Code 11.59 collection has grown into a broad platform that allows Audemars Piguet to showcase its design chops in case and crystal construction as well as its mastery of complicated and elaborate movement execution. With a sophisticated and unique case profile, dozens of references, and exciting complications, the Code 11.59 celebrates material, movement, and modernity. 

The Code 11.59 combines modern design thinking with traditional watchmaking complications and approaches. “Previously, the Code 11.59 was viewed as merely a stepping stone to a future Royal Oak allocation, and now it’s a desired piece in its own right,” said Craniotes.

If you have brushed this collection aside in the past, we suggest that you give it a second look. Trying one on in person will undoubtedly yield a deep appreciation of the attention to details and the complexity of the execution.