A. Lange & Söhne Grande Lange 1 "DUBAIL" Wellendorff Review

A core model watch from A. Lange & Söhne is hard enough to find in the wild, but a Grande Lange 1 that is 1 of 25 is even more of a rarity. Especially when it has an eye-popping mother-of-pearl dial. 

To understand why this piece is special, it is important to remember that when A. Lange & Söhne was resurrected in 1994, the Lange 1 was among the first four watches that were introduced to announce its return. And even now, over 30 years later, its basic formula remains the same: an asymmetrical display, separate hours and minutes and running seconds, power reserve, and the iconic Lange Big Date, inspired by the clock above the Semperoper stage in Dresden. 

The reference 117.040 takes the familiar dial and adds a touch of glam that’s a bit unusual for the German watchmaker. Created for Parisian retailer Dubail as a limited edition of only 25 pieces, this variation of the Grande Lange 1 replaces the restrained dial with mother-of-pearl, carrying a cool, bluish, stormy tint. 

And if you want to harp on the rarity some more, mother-of-pearl also makes each example inherently individual. Materials are meticulously selected, then cut and polished, and the iridescence makes the dial look like it shifts dramatically depending on the light. One moment it looks silver and subdued; the next, blues and other hues flow across the dial. No two pieces display the same pattern. 

The 41mm white gold case and familiar asymmetrical architecture remain, while the movement was adapted to accommodate the added thickness of the mother-of-pearl, though the final piece is still a svelte 8.8mm in thickness. The L095.1 delivers the meticulous movement decoration expected of Glashütte’s finest, and the rare Wellendorff bracelet created by the Pforzheim jeweler completes the unicorn-like package.

The Lange 1 reintroduced A. Lange & Söhne to the modern enthusiast; the Grande Lange 1 asserted its legendary status in a bigger, bolder case. This reference takes that icon and elevates it with understated extravagance.