Geneva Watch Days 2025: Day One Debuts

Geneva Watch Days has always stood apart from the larger, more rigid trade fairs. Instead of the cavernous halls of Palexpo, the city itself becomes the venue. Brands host presentations in hotel suites, along the lakeside, and inside boutiques. Collectors, press, and industry insiders spend more time outdoors, which creates a more relaxed and conversational atmosphere. It feels less like an exhibition and more like an extended gathering of the watch community.

That spirit was immediately clear on Day One. The first hours of the fair brought no shortage of impressive debuts, but three pieces stood out as especially relevant for European Watch Company’s clients and collectors: the Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan, and MB&F LM101 EVO. Each tells a very different story, yet all capture what makes watchmaking worth following closely.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal

Fifteen years after founding his brand, Laurent Ferrier has returned to the watch that started it all. The Classic Tourbillon was his first creation in 2010 and it immediately won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The new Classic Tourbillon Teal honors that beginning while presenting it with fresh energy.

The 41 mm case is crafted in platinum, a first for the brand. Beneath the domed sapphire sits a new teal grand feu enamel dial, which has an understated dark, almost-black green color. Roman numerals in white enamel circle the edge, with sky blue details for the railway minute track and logo adding a little flair.

Turning the watch over reveals the LF619.01 calibre. The bridges are now finished with horizontal satin and ruthenium, while the moving components are rhodium-plated for the first time in the brand’s history. The tourbillon itself remains hidden from the dial, continuing Ferrier’s belief that the complication should serve precision rather than spectacle (perhaps something he learned during his time at Patek Philippe).

The Classic Tourbillon Teal is part of the Atelier Series and limited to only five pieces, priced at CHF 195,000. Exclusivity does not get much tighter than this, making it one of the most collectible releases of day one (and the entire fair).

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

Bulgari presented one of the most intriguing collaborations of the year with the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari. Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan is known for work that explores perception and presence. His sculptures often juxtapose a static rock with the endless reflections of a mirror. That dialogue finds its way into this watch through a mirrored dial surface, framed by the architectural Octo case.

The 40 mm case and bracelet are in titanium, but the surface treatment is what sets it apart. Each link is finished by hand to create a texture that almost resembles meteorite or carbon fiber. It gives the bracelet an organic depth that changes character in different lighting and feels entirely different from the flat or brushed finishes typical of titanium watches. That raw, almost geological quality plays against the polished steel bezel and mirrored dial, amplifying the visual tension at the heart of the collaboration.

Inside is Bulgari’s BVL 138 calibre with micro-rotor, measuring just 2.23 mm thick. The overall height is a mere 5.5 mm, keeping it faithful to the Finissimo legacy of breaking boundaries in thinness.

Limited to 150 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan feels less like a fashion-driven collaboration and more like a thoughtful work of wearable art. For collectors who value both Italian design and contemporary art, this is a conversation piece that extends beyond watch circles.

MB&F LM101 EVO

MB&F’s Legacy Machine 101 has long been one of the brand’s most beloved creations. With its 40 mm case and signature flying balance wheel, it distilled the fundamentals of mechanical watchmaking into an intimate format. For the brand’s twentieth anniversary in 2025, MB&F has given it the EVO treatment, and the result is a watch that feels both familiar and refreshingly new.

The EVO line is designed for more active wear. The LM101 EVO features 80 meters of water resistance, a screw-down crown, and an integrated rubber strap. The case eliminates a traditional bezel, opening up the dial side for an unobstructed view of the balance wheel and subdials. MB&F also adds its patented FlexRing shock absorber to protect the movement from impacts.

There are aesthetic upgrades as well. The twin arches supporting the 14 mm balance wheel have been refined into sleeker curves, while the subdials are now framed with delicate borders and paired with new white gold hands. The power reserve has been extended from 45 to 60 hours.

Turning the watch over, the darkened movement finished under the guidance of Kari Voutilainen shows a different personality from earlier LM101s. The Geneva waves are broader and more dramatic, with polished internal angles, gold chatons, and hand-made engravings. Available in two titanium dial-plate variations, salmon or green, the LM101 EVO is not officially limited, though production will be restricted to a few dozen pieces per year.

Collector’s Takeaway

What ties these three releases together is not a shared theme, but the way each represents a compelling opportunity for collectors. The Laurent Ferrier is a near-unattainable piece of haute horlogerie that connects directly to the roots of an independent master. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan bridges watchmaking with contemporary art, offering a rare chance to own a collaboration that feels deeply authentic. The MB&F LM101 EVO brings a collector favorite into a more versatile and robust form without compromising its artistry.

What makes Geneva Watch Days special is the range of watches you encounter in just a few days. You can spend one morning with high-end independents like Laurent Ferrier and MB&F, then later that afternoon see major releases from established names like Bulgari. That mix of perspectives is what makes this particular fair so rewarding. Among everything I saw this year, these three stood out as the pieces that speak most clearly to collectors who care about rarity, design, and craft.