Is the 36mm Sports Watch Back for Good?

For the better part of the last decade, the words “sports watch” and “36mm” rarely appeared in the same sentence unless someone was referencing a vintage piece. But something has shifted. Rolex has expanded its 36mm lineup with confidence, Omega has introduced downsized versions of the Aqua Terra, and a growing number of collectors are not only asking about smaller cases, they’re specifically requesting them.

What was once written off as a “ladies’ size” or “too small for modern wrists” now feels increasingly current. So what’s going on? Is the return of the 36mm sports watch a fleeting retro revival, or part of a broader rebalancing in how we think about wrist presence, comfort, and style?

What collectors are really asking for

Size affects more than aesthetics. Watches in the 36–38mm range tend to sit better on the wrist, slide more easily under a sleeve, and don’t shout for attention. They still offer a strong visual identity, but with a more balanced profile.

David Cote, Watch Specialist at European Watch Company, said, “in recent years, we have seen a noticeable increase in client demand for sports watches under 40mm—especially in the 36mm range. Many buyers mention both comfort and classic aesthetics as key reasons driving this interest.” He added that this shift is “often seen as a nod to vintage or neo-vintage styles of the 90s and 2000s and a broader push for wearability on a variety of wrist sizes.” According to Cote, this isn’t just anecdotal: “it seems to permeate a vast scope when collectors talk to each other at meetups.”

Rolex leading the charge

The brand that helped usher in the big-watch era is now guiding collectors back the other way. Rolex’s decision to return the Explorer to 36mm after a stint at 39mm was no half-step. This was the modern Explorer, built tough with solid lume, an updated movement, and no vintage filter. Just a clean, wearable tool watch in a size that feels grounded.

Then came the 36mm Oyster Perpetuals with high-gloss dials in candy tones: turquoise, coral red, yellow. Playful, but not unserious. Far from compromise pieces, some OP36 references even traded above their larger counterparts on the secondary market at their peak.

There’s also renewed interest in the 36mm Day-Date. It has always been available, but now it’s being talked about in enthusiast circles again. The proportions feel timeless, and collectors seem more willing to embrace the classic sizing. “Rolex’s 36mm models, such as the Datejust and the Explorer, are consistently popular,” Cote confirmed, “and tend to hit the sweet spot for both new buyers and seasoned collectors.”

Omega and others follow

Omega’s Aqua Terra 38 has long been popular, but the 36mm version may be even better suited to the design. The shorter lug-to-lug distance, clean symmetry, and dial options make it one of the most wearable watches in the lineup. It feels casual but refined, sporty without being loud.

TAG Heuer has been experimenting with smaller Carreras, and even brands like Longines and Tudor are starting to revisit the 36mm format in more interesting ways. While Cartier isn’t a sports watch brand in the traditional sense, its continued success with the Santos in 35 to 36mm sizes has helped normalize smaller cases in the mainstream. As Cote noted, “The same trend is apparent among other brands introducing or reintroducing sports watches in the 36mm size, with collectors often praising the versatility and elegance of these pieces.”

Who is it for?

Not every wrist will love 36mm, but the idea that it’s inherently too small is becoming harder to defend. Depending on case shape and bezel design, a 36mm watch can often wear closer to a 38 or even 39mm. For those with slimmer wrists or for anyone tired of lug overhang and daily wrist fatigue, it can feel like a revelation.

This isn’t about nostalgia either. Many classic sports models from the 1950s through the 1980s were built in this size range. Today’s re-embrace of 36mm might feel like a response to recent fashion shifts, but it also connects directly to a long lineage of functional, well-proportioned watches.

So… is it back for good?

There is plenty of evidence to suggest that it is. While trends are constantly shifting, wearability and comfort tend to outlast the hype cycles. A well-designed 36mm sports watch doesn’t feel like a retro novelty or a quirky outlier. It feels right. It fits. And more collectors are beginning to realize that smaller cases often bring more balance, more comfort, and more charm.