Overlooked is your weekly horological treasure hunt — where we dig through the vaults of European Watch Company to spotlight a few quietly brilliant pieces hiding in plain sight. It’s the sleeper hit, the underdog, the “wait, how is this still available?” watch you didn’t know you needed… until now.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is arguably one of the most important dive watches in history. First released in 1953, it was developed in collaboration with the French Navy’s elite "Nageurs de Combat" (combat swimmers) unit. Early examples are often sought out by dive watch aficionados, and the design language inherent in the original models still carries through to their contemporary counterparts. We’ve found four notable options, listed in order of youngest to oldest, to take you to a total depth of two hundred fathoms.

Blancpain 5050 Fifty Fathoms Titanium

There is a certain look to the Fifty Fathoms that makes it easily recognizable, from the shape of the marker at the top of the bezel to the typefaces used, and this titanium model, ref. 5050-12B30-B52A, is no exception. The lightweight 45mm titanium case is contrasted nicely by a black dial with luminous applied white markers and hands that provide clear legibility, and the dial is enhanced by a big date display at the six o’clock position. The unidirectional rotating bezel in glossy black is also very legible and has a luminous diving scale. It’s powered by Blancpain’s in-house automatic caliber 6918B, visible through the sapphire caseback, with a silicon hairspring and an ample 120-hour power reserve. It’s in like new condition with box and papers dated 2022, and at 300m of water resistance, it can accompany its wearer on any dive.

Blancpain 5015-1240-52A Fifty Fathoms Automatique Titanium 

Love the titanium case of our previous model, but looking for a dial and bezel that might more closely resemble the color of the water you’re diving in? Look no further than this deep drink of water, ref. 5015-1240-52A. It features a titanium bracelet to match its 45mm titanium case, a blue sunburst dial with white applied luminous hour markers, a matching blue unidirectional rotating bezel, and a date window between the four and five o’clock positions. It’s rated to a depth of 300 meters and has a screw-down crown. Inside is the in-house automatic caliber 1315, which has a 100-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire caseback. It’s in like new condition, with box and papers dated 2019.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Aqualung No Radiation

The legendary “No Rad”, or watches with the “No Radiations” badge on the dial, are highly sought after by collectors for their rarity and their history of use with professional and military divers. Blancpain added the "No Radiations" symbol to some models after they shifted from the use of radium luminescent material, which was in widespread use throughout the watch industry, to the less dangerous tritium. This Aqualung model dates from approximately 1965 and has all the hallmarks of an iconic Fifty Fathoms - a unidirectional bezel, screw-down crown, and high-contrast, legible dial. It has a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by an automatic movement. This fantastic example presents an opportunity to wear a piece of the history of underwater exploration on your wrist.

Blancpain Vintage LIP Fifty Fathoms Rotomatic Incabloc 

Going back even further into the lineage of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, this Aqualung model from the 1950s is demonstrative of the earliest versions of this iconic timepiece. In a 41mm stainless steel case, it features the classic design language that we see echoed in subsequent models. This particular example retains its original dial with radium paint on the markers and hands, original Bakelite bezel, and a rare two-piece caseback. It’s powered by a 17-jewel automatic signed Blancpain movement and bears the name of its original retailer, LIP, on the dial. 

The Fifty Fathoms is a fantastic choice for deep divers and desk divers alike. These four Fifty Fathoms options add up to two hundred fathoms of pure dive watch magnificence.