Rolex 1908 "Settimo" ref. 52508 Review

When most collectors think of Rolex, they think of steel sports watches. The Submariner, GMT-Master II, Daytona, and Explorer are all front and center of the Rolex conversation. The 1908 sits somewhere else entirely, though - it’s  Rolex in a more formal mood, and very much a modern piece, rather than an attempt to recreate something from the past. 

This Rolex 1908 ref. 52508 is possibly one of the most distinctive versions of the collection so far. The 39mm case is crafted from 18K yellow gold, with a nice, slim 9.5mm profile that keeps the watch firmly in dress-watch territory. The black dial gives the piece a sharper, more graphic presence than the lighter dial variants, while the mix of Arabic numerals, faceted hour markers, and small seconds at 6 o’clock gives it just enough vintage character without making the whole thing feel too nostalgic. 

A full-gold take on modern Rolex elegance 

The biggest differentiator is the bracelet. While many 1908 models are seen on leather straps, this version comes on Rolex’s yellow-gold “Settimo” bracelet. Made from seven-piece solid links, it affects the whole character of the watch. It still feels refined, but there’s a little more presence, both visually and in physical weight, too, of course. It’s giving a little more jewelry-watch elegance, and a stronger sense that this is a serious, precious-metal Rolex rather than a conservative formal piece. 

There’s also the movement, which is worth more than a passing mention. Visible through the transparent case back is Rolex’s calibre 7140, a self-winding manufacture movement with a Syloxi silicon hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, and approximately 66 hours of power reserve. For a brand that rarely shows its movements, the display back feels like a deliberate statement. It’s an apt illustration of the adage “show, don’t tell”.

This example is listed in like-new condition with its Rolex box and papers dated 2026. For collectors who want a modern Rolex that sits outside the usual steel sports-watch conversation, this black-dial 1908 on a full yellow-gold bracelet is one of the more interesting ways to do it.