Each week, EWC will be gathering horological industry news, cultural conversations and moments surrounding our favorite topic: timepieces. Happy Friday; here’s what’s on our watch. 

It’s December, and rather than things slowing down and cooling off as we approach the holidays, the brands are still bringing the heat with lots of new watches. Here’s a look at the latest updates in the world of watches.

New watches

Breguet caps off its 250th Anniversary celebration year with the truly mind-blowing (and experimental) Experimentale 1. It’s a mind-blowing tourbillon with a magnetic constant force escapement. A double-barrel movement with four springs, it uses a magnetic pallet lever escapement with two titanium wheels and uses samarium-cobalt magnets instead of jewels, creating not only a magnetic movement, but one that is frictionless. Friction is one of the banes of watchmaking’s existence, requiring measures like oil lubricants to counteract the friction of metal parts interacting with one another. Friction also increases the energy required to power the movement. This system ensures that the amount of energy that is being transferred to the movement is the same regardless of whether it is fully wound or at the end of its power reserve, making it a constant-force mechanism.

This is the start of the Experimentale collection for Breguet, so expect to see more interesting experiments in the future.

Perhaps a bit overshadowed by the big reveal of the Experimentale 1, Breguet also released two new chiming watches: the reference 7365 Minute Repeater and the Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d'Art ref. 1905 pocket watch. The pocket watch features both a petite and grande sonnerie, a minute repeater, and a tourbillon in an 18K Breguet gold case. The reference 7365 is a surprisingly slim (for a minute repeater) 18K Breguet gold case measuring 39.1mm x 10.8mm, a beautiful blue enamel dial, and is powered by a new manually-wound caliber 1896, which features a silicon escapement.

Vacheron Constantin introduced three new models of a smaller version of their Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, achieving an elegantly finished self-winding perpetual calendar function in a very wearable 36.5mm case that is surprisingly thin at only 8.43mm of thickness. One model, like others before it in the Traditionelle in this case size, features a diamond-set bezel in an 18K white gold case, while the others, in pink gold and white gold, are the first two in this case size to be presented sans gem setting on the bezel. The self-winding calibre 1120 QP movement is exquisitely finished with multiple finishing techniques including Côtes de Genève on the bridges and oscillating weight.

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a new Limited Edition Master Control Classic, taking inspiration from a neo-vintage Master Control model from 1995. The case is a very wearable 36mm, keeping some of the vintage charm with slightly more modern proportions. The silver-colored sunray dial complements the steel case for a tone-on-tone look, punctuated with luminescent dots adjacent to the hour indices, and a contrasting blued central seconds hand - one does want a hint of color. And though the aesthetic is true to its inspiration, the up-to-date self-winding Calibre 899 movement is anything but vintage.

Continuing their creative partnership, TAG Heuer and fragment released their third collaboration piece with the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Limited Edition. The edition combines a reimagining of TAG Heuer’s signature glassbox design through the interpretation of Hiroshi Fujiwara's keen eye. The timepiece is in a new 39mm case with a black dial with sharply contrasting white accents. There are subtle design cues incorporating signature elements from fragment, such as the fragment lightning bolt. This piece is not just about design - it’s also about performance, with its robust in-house TH20-00 movement with an 80-hour power reserve

Never one to shy away from bold and colorful designs, Zenith introduced their latest DEFY Extreme Chroma Limited Editions in two different ceramic case options with distinctive rainbow accents. Both versions incorporate titanium and ceramic in the cases, and the dials are open-worked, revealing the chromatic rainbow display and allowing the wearer to peer directly into the in-house El Primero 9004 movement. Each piece also comes with three strap options, making either a versatile addition to any collection.

Two designers come together in one timepiece with the Ressence TYPE 3 Marc Newson. The TYPE 3 MN features a double-domed sapphire crystal and hands that appear suspended in an oil-filled chamber, combining Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens' revolutionary oil-filled innovation with industrial designer Marc Newson’s bold design style. The display mechanism incorporates the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System, which powers the unconventional and proprietary timekeeping display.

H. Moser & Cie introduced the latest in their Streamliner line, the Genesis 2. Limited to 100 pieces, this strikingly sleek timepiece features a steel case and bracelet, a Vantablack dial, and a 3D-printed titanium crown, as well as a sapphire caseback for admiring the movement.

Celebs: Basketballin’

Carmelo Anthony appeared on the NBA on NBC show looking stylish in a Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Black DLC Titanium 45mm. The former basketball player has a longtime affinity for the brand, selecting their timepieces as Haute Time Watch of the Day picks as far back as 2012.

R&B singer and songwriter Trey Songz was spotted at a New York Knicks game at Madison Square Garden wearing a Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort, a perfectly casual tourbillon for a perfectly casual courtside seat.

On the other side of the pond, actor Aaron Moten wore a TAG Heuer Carrera Date Green Dial to the London screening of the second season of ‘Fallout’. He stayed on theme, with green tones in his outfit to complement the watch.

News and happenings

In London:

This weekend, on Saturday, December 6, the British Weekender event returns to the Time+Tide Discovery Studio in London. The event is a collaboration with the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers and will showcase the depth and breadth of what British horology has to offer, featuring brands such as Roger Smith, Christopher Ward, Studio Underdog, Fears, Farer, and many more. If you miss out on this event, the Time+Tide Discovery Studio is a great place to visit, and bonus: it is dog-friendly.

On Monday, December 8, David Rooney, author of About Time: A History of Civilization in Twelve Clocks, will present a talk at Goldsmiths’ Hall in London, entitled “History at The Hall – The Big Hop: Adventures in the Workshop and the Air,” in support of his latest book. Tickets are available for £15 and are available here.

Bonham’s will hold its London Fine Watches auction on December 11, with previews available for viewing in London from December 7-10. The auction features some models frequently seen at auction, as well as some hidden gems from Breguet, Voutilainen, and some delightfully fun and funky pieces from Cartier.

In NYC:

Simon Jeffs, founder of Brooklands Watch Company, will ponder the relationship between time and speed at Horological Society of NY’s December lecture on Monday, December 8. The lecture, entitled “Giving Meaning To Speed: Time and Timing at Brooklands”, connects the history of the Brooklands motor racing circuit to timekeepers who measure speed. RSVP for the lecture here.

The upcoming auctions at Phillips, Sotheby’s, and Christie’s that were covered in last week’s Roundup will have their final days of previews in NYC as follows:

Phillips: today, December 5, is the last day of previews for the December 6-7 auction. The preview is open from 10 AM - 7 PM.

Sotheby’s: Preview for the December 8 auction is available December 5-6 from 10 AM - 5 PM and December 7 from 1 - 5 PM.

Christie’s: The preview for the December 9 auction is available December 5-8 from 10 AM - 5 PM.