Each week, EWC will be gathering horological industry news, cultural conversations and moments surrounding our favorite topic: timepieces. Happy Friday; here’s what’s on our watch. 

With the slight melting of the Hoth-like tundra in the northeastern US, the watch enthusiast’s fancy turns thoughts of new releases and discontinuation rumors, more cool watches making their way down the never-ending award season’s various red carpets, and high drama regarding the accuracy (or lack thereof) in recent reports about the state of the industry. It’s a lot to digest, so let’s get right into it.

New releases

Czapek announced two new additions with mother-of-pearl dials to its collections: the Antarctique S Ice Cloud and the Promenade Midnight Pearl. Czapek has partnered with GT Cadrans, a dial manufacturer near Lausanne, Switzerland, to create both dials.

The Ice Cloud, limited to only 10 pieces, uses a technique called nacre brouillée, or scattered mother-of-pearl, to achieve an effect on the dial that is reminiscent of a lightly cloudy blue sky. In a 38.5mm steel case, it’s powered by the brand’s in-house automatic Calibre SXH5, which boasts a 60-hour power reserve.

The Midnight Pearl, limited to 38 pieces, incorporates a very interesting technique that has a Tahitian mother-of-pearl base with a layer of aventurine glass overlaid in a patented sandwich construction. The result is a dial that evokes the reflection of a starry night sky in a tranquil lake. This version is in a 38mm steel case housing the in-house Calibre SXH5.1, which features an off-center small seconds display at the 4:30 position, and also has a 60-hour power reserve.

Parmigiani Fleurier released the latest iteration of its Tonda PF 36mm in a new dial color: Alta Rosa, a muted, soft rosy tone. The dial is hand-guilloched in a Grain d'Orge pattern and has applied rhodium-plated gold indices. It’s powered by the brand’s in-house automatic manufacture movement PF770, which has a 60-hour power reserve. 

Celeb Spotting

Awards season continues with yet another weekend of glamorous red carpet watches, this time at the Screen Actor’s Guild Actor’s Awards. 

The highlight of the night was the vintage Piaget Limelight in white gold with diamonds and a very cool checkered dial worn by Michael B. Jordan, winner of Male Actor in a Leading Role for his dual lead roles in Sinners. Fellow Sinners cast members Miles Caton and Delroy Lindo wore a Louis Vuitton Tambour in steel and rose gold and an Omega De Ville Prestige in steel, respectively.

Other red carpet highlights from the Actor’s Awards included Amy Madigan, winner for Supporting Actor for her role in Weapons, in an Omega De Ville Mini Tresor, Connor Storrie in a Tiffany Cocktail in white gold with diamonds, and Tyler, the Creator in a vintage Cartier Trinity.

Industry News

Controversy surrounds the recently released Morgan Stanley “Swiss Watcher” report, with both Swatch Group and Tudor publicly commenting on their disagreement with the contents and methodologies in the report. Morgan Stanley does not publish this report publicly, as its intended audience is Morgan Stanley Investment Management clients, but elements of the report have been published by various media outlets.

Swatch Group published an open letter regarding the report, which mentions, amongst other things, an average deviation in turnover figures of 24% and an average deviation of unit sales of 39%. The letter also calls into question the methodologies used and the conclusions reached by the report, which was produced in conjunction with the Swiss firm LuxeConsult. The Swatch Group letter states that the report includes damaging statements, saying “research includes statements about sales development and profits of our companies that could seriously undermine customer and retailer trust. Some of these wrong statements are so severe that in addition to communication measures, legal action should be considered.” 

A Tudor spokesperson, speaking with Swiss publication Le Temps, also questioned the accuracy and methodologies of the report, pointing out that the revenue growth figures in the study do not match the percentages in the final report, and that the revenue percentages associated with their wholesale business are inaccurate. 

Vacheron Constantin expanded its boutique presence in the United States with a new boutique in the Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey. The boutique will house the brand’s complete collections, including high complications and limited boutique editions, and provide a space for hospitality and exploration of the collections. 

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announced the auction lots that will be presented at its upcoming gala on March 21. There will be 10 lots, ranging from unique watches to dining experiences. Highlights include a signed Octa Réserve de Marche Wall Clock donated by F.P. Journe, an engraved C by Romain Gauthier Titanium wristwatch donated by Romain Gauthier, and a watchmaking immersion class & private dinner for two donated by TAG Heuer. Absentee bids will be accepted. All lots and bidding information can be viewed on HSNY’s website here.

Gala tickets are sold out, but tickets to the after-party, presented by The Armoury, are now available. The after-party will feature a headline set from DJ Rich Medina, dancing, and an open bar. Tickets to the after-party are available here.

Though Rolex has not issued any public comment about new or discontinued models, rumors continue to swirl about the potential discontinuation of the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Pepsi’, reference 126710BLRO. Some outlets have claimed that authorized dealers or other sources have confirmed the rumors, but no verifiable confirmation from any official source has surfaced. The ongoing rumors have led to much pearl-clutching over potential impact to secondary market prices, but the true fate of the Pepsi remains to be seen.