Blue dial watches have been all the rage for quite some time, yet recently green has become the new blue. Patek has been one of the brands setting this new trend, and it has perfected it with the Patek Philippe 5270P-014 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in platinum with a green dial. It is a beautiful fume-style green that starts as a vibrant green in the center and darkens as it extends out. The brand chose to do it in a 41mm perpetual calendar chronograph, a staple Patek complication and a perfect size for the modern collector.
Patek is the brand that is seen as the originator of the perpetual calendar chronograph. It originally debuted in the 35mm 1518 series in the early 1940s, the first ever serialized complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch. All previously made Patek timepieces of similar complications were only made to order for the brand’s clientele. In the early fifties, this evolved into the 2499 series, which was a slightly larger 37mm case that most featured round pushers. Next was the 3970 series from the 1980s that went on till 2004. The 3970 had a smaller 36mm case, but this was the first to use the Lemania-based chronograph caliber. In 2004, the brand released the 5970 series, arguably one of the most sought-after versions due to its design and short seven-year production run. The 5970 also used the Lemania movement and featured design aspects of the previous models, such as the tachymeter and the rectangular pushers styled after the 1518 series, but this version was in a larger 40mm case size and had modern aesthetics. Finally, in 2011, Patek Philippe released the 5270 series, which was the current 41mm design and featured the first in-house developed Patek caliber. This version has released several variations over the years in white gold, rose gold, and platinum with a salmon dial before releasing this version in platinum with the green dial in 2022.
The 5270P is a perfect modern Patek timepiece in terms of design as well as function. Obviously its fume lacquered green dial is the standout detail that will hit you first. The crisp white railroad track around the dial, the chronograph subdials, and the alternating white numbers surrounding the moon phase for the date provide great contrast to the dark tones of the dial. The arrangement of the dial’s information is well-balanced and easy to read, even considering how much information is being shown. An AM/PM indicator is near 7 o’clock, and mirroring that on the opposite side is a leap year indicator at 5 o’clock. White gold baton-style indices, as well as white gold dauphine-shaped hands, adorn the dial and complement the platinum case perfectly. The Patek Philippe logo, just under the day/month indicator, adds the final touches to the dial. The curved fluted lugs are seamlessly soldered to the fully polished rounded case. The two rectangular pushers fitted to the case on either side of the crown have a brushed finish applied to the flat sides. The tip of the crown shows the Calatrava cross, like most Patek watches. A black alligator strap with green stitching accompanies the timepiece and is fitted with a platinum deployant buckle with the Calatrava cross engraved on the clasp.
The movement inside the 5270P is the CH 29-535 PS Q. This is a manually wound caliber with a 65-hour power reserve. Being manually wound isn’t to everyone’s tastes, but it does allow for an unobstructed view of its chronograph bridges and levers via its display caseback. With 456 total parts, there is a lot to see, and everything is meticulously finished with a variety of techniques. Each level of the movement showcases fine hand finishing, including Geneva stripes, perlage, and even black-polished finishes. The caliber receives the Patek Philippe seal as a hallmark stating the movement meets the brand’s high standards. The Gyromax balance beats away at 28,800 vph and ensures a high level of accuracy. The movement is masterfully created, but being manually wound has a drawback since it is a full perpetual calendar one can not just put it on a watch winder when not wearing it. Although, for the purists, the manual version is preferred.
Versus The Competition
Patek is in a realm of its own when it comes to complications like this one. So when looking at other timepieces, another Patek like the Patek Philippe 5204P-010 Split Second Perpetual Calendar compares precisely the same, but with additional split seconds on top of the standard chronograph. This one looks a bit more traditional, being round with round pushers and thinner stepped lugs. Also, you have the more conventional dial color versus the green of the 5270P. The price is higher due to the added complexity, so there are other options to look at for less. One interesting timepiece would be this De Bethune DB25QP Perpetual Calendar in green. It has a similar green dial following the theme of the Patek, and the De Bethune looks even more modern. The DB25QP is very different in the perpetual calendar layout and uses De Bethune’s unique three-dimensional moon phase. It is not quite as complex as it does not have the added chronograph function, but definitely worth checking out as the brand is on the rise.
The early adopters or collectors of the 5270P green dial are most likely looking to add variety to their collections. These collectors probably favor modern watches over vintage Patek timepieces. This could be someone who missed earlier versions of the 5270 for their collection, but the green dial is preferred as it would be unique. It is undoubtedly not the only piece this collector owns, although this could fit into that “if only one watch” category due to its complications and wearability. The person buying this will typically own many complicated timepieces and could even own 20-plus watches from various brands. It is surely not the only Patek, probably this collector’s grail Patek Philippe timepiece.
The 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is an area in which Patek excels highly in creating. The green dial choice for this follows the current trends, but it is something the brand truly started rather than followed. This piece will be unique for any collector and is excellent for a modern watch collection, but it has all the elements that tie into the brand’s history and prestige.