Lifestyle

What Do Watch Collectors Actually Want From Brands in 2026?


ByDavid Sergeant

Published on 10/22/2026

Featured image for Lifestyle

You know the event. There's a rooftop, a random DJ that’s more into dance moves than the track list, and a tray of some  fancy little bites served on a spoon. The new watch is in a glass case across the room, and the one person who could tell you how the movement works is stuck talking to a guy that’s holding two drinks. You head home with a tote bag and roughly the same amount of knowledge about the new watch that you arrived with. 

For quite some time, that was how brands handled collectors and watch launches, and it worked, more or less. When the most hyped watches were difficult to get, an invitation to an event felt like a step toward the front of the queue. That dynamic has changed. Secondary market prices have come a long way down from their early 2022 peak, waitlists for many watches have shortened, and collectors have noticed that they have more leverage than they used to. 

Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Enamel SS Purple Dial

H. Moser & Cie.

Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Enamel SS Purple Dial

So it's a fair moment to ask what collectors want from the brands that make their watches. As it turns out, the requests are considerably less elaborate than the events. 

Why Watch Brands Should Ask Collectors for Feedback

Collectors want to be listened to, and they can tell when they're being managed instead. Anyone who's spent time in the hobby has a story about this. You ask a boutique a straightforward question about availability and get a speech about "building a relationship," which usually translates to buying two watches you don't want in order to qualify for the one you do. That behavior tells you exactly where you stand, which is somewhere quite a few lines down on a spreadsheet. 

Compare that with how smaller watchmakers tend to operate. Send an email to an independent watch brand, and there's a good chance you’ll receive a reply from the founder, sometimes at alarming length. Ask them why the case is 39mm rather than 37mm, and you'll get the real answer, including the details they're not sure they got right. Of course, nobody expects the CEO of a major brand to answer every individual’s email, but putting an actual watchmaker or designer in front of collectors and letting the conversation go beyond the press release shouldn't be an impossible ask. 

PRF-00046 Automatique Platinum Silver Dial 2025

Biver

PRF-00046 Automatique Platinum Silver Dial 2025

$155,000

Not every collector expects a personal hearing. "I believe brands adapt primarily to broad market preferences rather than individual suggestions, so it's hard to pinpoint a moment where I have felt personally listened to," said Danny Lai, a collector who goes by @Dannys_watches_world on Instagram. He pointed to the industry's recent return to "watches that have a reasonable proportion to the wrist," which, to him, "feels like a response to collective market feedback rather than one person's voice." 

He's fine with that, too. "I firmly believe that a brand must have its own distinct style and DNA, and they absolutely should stick to it rather than bending to every collector's whim," Lai said. "I respect brands that hold their ground."

52506 1908 Platinum Ice Blue Guilloche Dial 2026

Rolex

52506 1908 Platinum Ice Blue Guilloche Dial 2026

$42,500

He's got a point. A brand that redraws its catalog every time a forum thread turns sour won't have much identity left, and nobody wants a watch designed by the comments section. Being heard doesn't necessarily mean getting your own way. Sometimes it simply means seeing that a brand has been paying attention. There's one complaint Lai hears repeatedly when talking with fellow collectors: "Why don't brands just release their best, most perfected design from the start?" 

You may recognize the complaint. A watch launches, then a different dial color appears, and two years later, there's a version a millimeter thinner, leaving early buyers feeling a bit like guinea pigs. Lai's advice to brands was blunt. "Stop relying on the endless cycle of simply changing dial colors or releasing marginally tweaked iterations of the exact same model," he said. He accepted that there are commercial reasons for it and that there may be no perfect answer, but "from a collector's perspective, true innovation is always more exciting than endless colorways." 

So collectors would like to be surprised a little more often, and asked to buy the same watch in a slightly different colorway a little less frequently. Ask what a brand has done that really stuck, though, and Lai's answer had nothing to do with a launch event. 

Why Workshop Visits Build More Collector Loyalty Than Launch Parties

Lai has nothing against a party, and he enjoys boutique events for the chance to meet other collectors. But the moment that changed how he felt about a watch came in conversation with independent watchmaker Hervé Schlüchter. "Discussing the intricacies of the craft directly with the maker and seeing the raw dedication behind his work gives a timepiece a soul," Lai said. 

1941 Principia SS Salmon Dial

Gronefeld

1941 Principia SS Salmon Dial

$57,500

He found the same thing in the bespoke process. "Discussing the exact fluid curves of a water-flow engraving directly with the artisan offers a level of profound intimacy with the creation," Lai said. "Boutique events are wonderful for building community, but it is that direct, unfiltered connection to the craftsman that a boutique event has never managed to replicate for me," he continued. 

It's easy to understand the appeal. You can read any number of articles that tell you that the balance cock on a Lange 1 is engraved by hand. But stand behind the engraver in Glashütte while they cut the pattern freehand, and suddenly that little bridge becomes considerably more interesting. There's only so much a photograph and a paragraph about craftsmanship can tell you. 

SLGH013G Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 SS "Spring on Mt. Iwate"

Grand Seiko

SLGH013G Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 SS "Spring on Mt. Iwate"

$7,600

The opportunity isn't always reserved for a select group of VIP clients, either. Jaeger-LeCoultre opens its Le Sentier manufacture, where workshops are capped at eight people, and anyone can book a place. Grand Seiko takes visitors by reservation at Studio Shizukuishi in Iwate, where its mechanical movements are assembled. Nobody checks your purchase history at the door. Of course, you still have to be able to get there. 

The Vallée de Joux is a long way from Boston, and Iwate is a long way from almost everywhere. So the brands that take education seriously have started bringing it closer to home. Jaeger-LeCoultre has taken the workshop experience to boutiques and pop-ups, New York City among them. Other brands fly a watchmaker out to sit at a bench during a boutique evening, which does more for the watch aficionados in the room than any celebrity ambassador does. 

Q1652420 Master Tourbillon 18K Rose Gold Silver Dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Q1652420 Master Tourbillon 18K Rose Gold Silver Dial

$36,500

Give collectors the opportunity to ask questions, see the work being done, and perhaps try an introductory watchmaking lesson themselves, and there's a good chance they'll remember that afternoon long after they've forgotten whatever watch was being launched. 

What Collector Access Really Means: Information and People, Not Just Watches

"Access" is a word the industry has worn thin. It's been used to mean a party invitation or a place on a waiting list. What collectors like Lai describe is simpler: they want access to people and to information. That includes the dull stuff that rarely makes it into a brand's marketing material. A straight answer about allocation, even when the answer is no. Clear numbers on what a service will cost and how long it'll take. Even a proper explanation of why something was designed the way it was, without having to wade through three paragraphs of marketing language first. 

Vingt-8 White 18K Rose Gold Roman Opaline Dial  EARLY EXAMPLE

Kari Voutilainen

Vingt-8 White 18K Rose Gold Roman Opaline Dial EARLY EXAMPLE

$950,000

Some of this takes time and money to arrange, particularly manufacture visits and workshops. Other parts require little more than a willingness to have an open conversation with the people buying your watches. Collectors aren't necessarily expecting special treatment. Quite often, they just want to be treated like adults who understand what they're spending their money on. 

The parties will carry on, and they should, because as Lai pointed out, that's where collectors get to know each other. There's nothing wrong with a decent evening, good company, and a glass of something cold. But if a brand is choosing between another DJ and an extra hour with a watchmaker at a collector event, the decision should be pretty simple.

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