When A. Lange and Söhne is the topic of conversation, it’s often a conversation that revolves around the finishing and clever engineering that goes into its mechanical calibers. When the brand’s name is mentioned, the manually wound Datograph movement likely comes to mind, alongside the mechanical brilliance of the Zeitwerk, or the complexity of the Dato Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon. Thus, on most watches, the display casebacks become the epicenter of attention. In rare circumstances, however, Lange breaks with convention and establishes an equally ground-breaking dial. Today, we are looking at one such example — the A. Lange and Söhne Little Lange 1 Aventurine Dial Reference 182.086 — a reference with a dial that steals the show, and truly captures the cosmos.
History
Since its release in the inaugural Lange collection of 1994, the Lange 1 has served as the cornerstone of the brand’s collections, and one that established a bit of a benchmark for German watchmaking as a whole. While the Lange 1 debuted at 38.5mm in yellow gold with the reference 101.001, certain corners of the collecting market continually requested a scaled down version of the Lange 1 that was better suited for smaller wrists. In 1998, Lange introduced the Little Lange 1 at 36mm, finally providing an option for those who gravitate towards the smaller case diameter. Overall, the piece maintained the defining characteristics of the standard Lange 1, while adapting the proportions to suit the new sizing.
In 2021, after the success of the Little Lange 1, the brand extended the newfound case dimensions to the Lange 1 Moonphase. The Little Lange 1 Moonphase was offered in four configurations: two in white gold with aventurine dials (references 182.086 with gold bezel and 182.886 with diamond bezel), and two in rose gold with guilloche dials (182.030 with gold bezel and 182.830 with diamond bezel). These pieces are gorgeously finished on both the dial and movement sides of the case. Today we will analyze the 182.086 in an effort to explore what makes these references so special.
Design Details
When analyzing any Lange 1, design is key. The fundamental philosophy of the Lange 1 is the idea that you can simultaneously present off-center, staggered complications while maintaining balance and coherence on the dial. This piece accomplishes this goal to the T, with the time indication on the left side of the dial, and a big date, power reserve and subsidiary seconds with coaxial moonphase balancing the other side of the dial. The dial itself is constructed in 3D fashion, consisting of several separate dial components that fuse to present the dial that is seen. Thus, the time display and the moonphase/subsidiary seconds are recessed to add dimensionality to the dial.
The dial itself is crafted from aventurine glass with embedded bits of copper that produce the “gold-flux” appearance that is so scintillating. These bits of copper match the tones of the case material to ensure consistency in the metal hues that tie the piece together. To accentuate the star-speckled dial aesthetic, Lange has outfitted the piece with a special alligator strap that has been specially dyed with flecks of color. These straps are slightly higher in gloss than the typical Lange straps, but suit the dial tapestry perfectly. Additionally, the straps on these pieces do not feature the normal stitching across the top side of the strap surface. The case features Lange’s sophisticated three piece construction with a polished bezel and case back and polished mid case.
Inner Workings
Like most Lange movements, the base caliber L121.2 is riddled with inspirations from the pocket-watch era of Saxony and Lange’s history. The ¾ plate, gold chatons, and hand engraved balance cock, in particular, accentuate the heritage of the brand within the context of the broader Glashütte watchmaking legacy.
The L121.2 is identical in nature to the L121.3 that resides in the full sized variant of the Lange 1 moonphase, except for the fact that the L121.2 does not feature a day/night indicator on the moonphase. This was stripped in an effort to decrease the thickness of the base caliber and in turn, the final dimensions of the timepiece.
Lange watches are legendary for their movement finishing, and this piece is no exception. The Glashütte stripes are beautifully applied, the anglage is consistent in thickness across all surfaces in spite of its hand application, and the black polished components are mirrored without distortion.
The L121.3 is built with efficiency in mind, utilizing the ¾ plate to help stabilize the movement componentry and add solidity and heft to the piece. Simultaneously, these clinical attributes are complemented by the hand engraving of the balance cock and the golden chatons which soften the appearances and provide a beauty that extends beyond pure necessity, adding to the character of the piece.
Versus the Competition
In recent years, aventurine dials have become quite common among high-end brands, providing many alternatives to the Little Lange 1 Moonphase:
Within Lange’s own collection, the Saxonia Thin Copper Blue reference 205.086 is one of Lange’s most beautiful pieces. Simple in design with no complications, the dial scape is an uncluttered slab of aventurine glass formed atop the solid silver base substrate. For more information about this piece, view our previous article here.
Alongside the Little Lange 1, H. Moser’s Endeavor Perpetual Moon provides a great alternative with a moonphase. The piece is limited to 50 examples in stainless steel and also features an AM/PM indication at the center of the dial. The aesthetics are simple with dauphine hands and very little complexity, but the case geometry is beautiful and conforms to the contours of the wrist.
For a bit more complication, AP’s Code 11:59 Perpetual Calendar is a great option. This piece is complex, with multiple levels to the dial’s landscape and a very sophisticated case design, but represents one of the sleeper references among AP’s modern collection.
Personality
The Little Lange 1 Moonphase with aventurine dial will interest the collector that appreciates Lange watches, but wants a more artistic dial than the typical galvanized sterling silver dials that are commonplace on most Langes. The aventurine dial provides a more playful presentation that warms the piece’s otherwise austere complexion.
Special Lange pieces have a tendency to grow in appreciation with time, and one can assume that the same will occur here. Yet another draw (or shortcoming depending on perspective) of this piece is the fact that it isn’t a limited edition. Very often, watches of this unique stature from Lange are boutique exclusives or limited editions that make them nearly impossible to acquire without paying a significant premium. The relative availability of this piece allows it to maintain reasonable pricing so that those that want one can get one.
Final Thoughts
One of Lange’s most eccentric and artistic pieces, the Little Lange 1 with Aventurine Dial is well situated between strong watchmaking and unique aesthetics. A beautiful dial and a beautiful movement, the 182.086 is gem-like in appearance, balancing a thin profile and substantive complications. A great dress piece, this reference brings the prominence and history of the Lange 1 to a new audience, and does so tastefully.
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