When it comes to luxury watch brands, there is Rolex, and then there is everyone else. Despite not being the most exclusive or expensive manufacturer (by a long shot), Rolex is easily the most famous name in watchmaking, and the company wields a level of fame and mainstream recognition that far exceeds any other watch brand in existence today. Universally associated with luxury and the pursuit of excellence, the Rolex name is synonymous with wristwatches, and it exists within humanity’s vernacular in the same way that the marquees of other titans of industry such as Google, Coca-Cola, and Mercedes Benz are known in just about every remote corner of the world.
Rolex has been continuously producing watches since it was founded way back in 1905, and despite having one of the most consistent catalogs within the entire industry, an incredibly diverse assortment of different models have been produced throughout the brand’s rich history. While the old saying, “buy what you love” will always remain true, sometimes figuring out even where to start can be a bit of a daunting task. So, what are the best Rolex watches to buy right now? Below we take a look at a few of our favorites.
Rolex Daytona 116595RBOW “Rainbow”
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It’s hard to think of a Rolex model that has made more of an indelible mark on the modern watch collecting landscape than the Daytona. While the standard stainless steel model will always be one of the consistent fan-favorites, arguably no model has captured the eyes and imaginations of the general public more than the Rolex Daytona ref. 116595RBOW — aka the “Rainbow” Daytona. Originally introduced in 2018 as one of the brand’s incredibly elusive off-catalog models, the Everose gold edition of the Rainbow Daytona quickly became a favorite among celebrities all around the globe, and it still remains one of the most popular and exclusive Rolex models in existence today.
While the overall profile of the watch is very much in-line with the rest of the contemporary Daytona lineup, the Rainbow Daytona 116595RBOW is crafted from solid 18k Everose gold, set with diamonds, and adorned with a rainbow gradient gem-set bezel and matching baguette hour markers. Rolex has produced several other rainbow colored Daytona watches, but none have resonated with the general public quite like the reference 116595RBOW. Objectively speaking, the Rolex Rainbow Daytona is an unapologetically luxurious timepiece and it represents the far “out there” side of Rolex’s modern catalog. However, with open market values currently sitting at multiple times the already six-figure retail price of the ref. 116595RBOW, it is undeniable that the Rainbow Daytona is one of the best Rolex watches to buy — if you are lucky enough to be able to add one to your collection.
Rolex Turn-O-Graph 6202
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Rolex is famous for its world-class sports watches, but before the Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master ever made their debut appearances, there was the Rolex Turn-O-Graph. Originally launched in 1953, the Rolex Turn-O-Graph ref. 6202 almost looks like a vintage Submariner, yet it predates Rolex’s iconic dive watch and holds the distinction of being the very first commercially available Rolex model to ever feature a rotating bezel. In fact, it was the core design of Rolex Turn-O-Graph 6202 that ultimately ended up serving as the foundation for both the inaugural Submariner and GMT-Master watches, yet this historic model still remains relatively unknown compared to its maga-famous diver and pilot watch siblings.
At a quick glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the Rolex Turn-O-Graph reference 6202 is a vintage Submariner, and nearly everything about the model from its dial and hands to its case and bezel is almost a dead ringer for what can be found on early iterations of Rolex’s inaugural dive watch. That said, it is ultimately the “Turn-O-Graph” name printed on the lower half of the dial, and since the ref. 6202 was produced at a time before the Turn-O-Graph became part of the greater Datejust collection, this often overlooked vintage reference offers a highly utilitarian design and represents a significant aesthetic departure from every single other Turn-O-Graph watch that Rolex has ever put forward.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126719BLRO – Meteorite Dial
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A GMT watch with a red and blue bezel has become a cornerstone offering within the industry, and this distinct design can trace its roots back to the original Rolex GMT-Master. While the classic stainless steel version of Rolex’s legendary pilot’s watch will always be a tried-and-true staple, the modern white gold iterations of the watch have taken this familiar aesthetic and given it a highly luxurious twist. Pairing a red and blue Cerachrom ceramic bezel with a case and bracelet crafted from solid 18k white gold, the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126719BLRO is essentially the ultra-premium edition of the original version of the brand’s iconic travel watch.
While the standard configuration of the white gold Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126719BLRO is fitted with a dark blue dial to help visually separate it from the stainless steel models, the top-of-the-line version swaps the blue dial out for one crafted from a slice of meteorite for a striking and unusual overall aesthetic. Virtually all modern Rolex GMT-Master II watches are fitted with dark colored dials, which makes the pale silver color of the meteorite dial in the GMT-Master II 126719BLRO all the more unusual and special. Plus, the fact that it is made from a fragment of an ancient meteorite that crashed down to Earth during prehistoric times only makes this highly luxurious version of Rolex’s multi-time zone travel watch all the more interesting to collectors.
Rolex Daytona 6265 “Big Red”
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The Daytona has become the must-have Rolex in recent years, although the model itself has been in continuous production ever since it was first introduced to the public back in 1963. Over the years, the Rolex Daytona has steadily evolved, but one of the most important references from the model’s rich history is the reference 6265. Fitted with an acrylic crystal and a manual-wind chronograph movement, the ref. 6265 represents the final model from the first generation of Daytona watches and is arguably one of the purest expressions of Rolex’s iconic racing chronograph that has ever been created.
Just like the very first Cosmograph Daytona model from 1963, the Rolex Daytona 6265 features a stainless steel tachymeter bezel and a Valjoux-based manually wound chronograph movement. However, unlike the very first Daytona watch, the reference 6265 is one of the “Oyster” Daytona models, and it therefore features screw-down pushers for increased water resistance and a slightly larger presence on the wrist. Aside from the grail-worthy examples fitted with “Paul Newman” dials, it is the “Big Red” Rolex Daytona 6265 watches that are often the most sought-after by collectors due to the bold “Daytona” name in bright red letters sitting above their sub-dials at the 6 o’clock location.
Rolex Explorer II 16550 – White Dial
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For most of its history, the Explorer II was one of the most overlooked watches in Rolex’s entire lineup. However, the real turning point in the model’s popularity came long before it experienced mainstream popularity, and that was with the introduction of a white “Polar” dial version during the 1980s. When the Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550 made its debut in 1985, it marked a significant departure from the original model, and it introduced a thoroughly updated design that represents the point in the Explorer II’s history when it first started to take on what would ultimately become its contemporary form.
Available with the option of either a black or a white “Polar” dial, the black dial versions of the Rolex Explorer II 16550 look almost identical to the subsequent version of the brand’s cave explorer’s watch. However, the white dial models offer a number of subtle unique features that separate them apart from all other Explorer II watches. While all later versions of the white Explorer II dial feature black finished hands and hour markers, the reference 16550 has polished white gold hands and surrounds, which create a warm monochromatic overall appearance. Additionally, due to a subtle imperfection in the surface finish, many of the white dials originally fitted to Rolex Explorer II 16550 watches have darked to a rich cream color, which further adds to their unique aesthetic.
Rolex Daytona 116519 “Beach”
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Rolex has somewhat of a reputation for being a fairly conservative company when it comes to updating its long-running designs, but the brand has also released some truly unconventional pieces over the course of its long and storied history. While the stainless steel versions of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona almost always have fairly restrained designs, the precious metal versions of Rolex’s legendary chronograph often embrace thoroughly fun and playful aesthetics. Chief among the later variety are the various “Beach” Daytona models that were produced in low numbers during the early 2000s, which feature solid 18k white gold cases paired with brightly colored dials and straps.
Launched as a quartet of watches with dial colors that include pink, green, yellow and turquoise, the Rolex Daytona ref. 116519 “Beach” models all feature white gold cases fitted with integrated lug hoods and white gold tachymeter bezels. Additionally, rather than being fitted with matching metal bracelets like most Daytona watches, the reference 116519 “Beach” Daytona models all receive brightly colored leather straps that match the bright pastel hues of their dials. Created in small numbers nearly two decades ago, the various “Beach” Daytona 116519 watches represent a brief and fleeting moment in Rolex’s history, and they could almost be seen as the chronograph cousins of the famous “Stella” dial Rolex Day-Date watches.
Rolex Milgauss 116400
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There is arguably no watch more overlooked than the Milguss within Rolex’s modern lineup. While most of the brand’s tool watch siblings were created for exciting and glamorous adventure sports like scuba diving, mountaineering, or automotive racing, the Rolex Milgauss was created to be an antimagnetic watch for scientists working in laboratories. Launched in 2007, the reference 116400 marked the arrival of the third generation of Rolex Milgauss watches, and it represents a significant aesthetic departure from its predecessors, sporting a 40mm case, sapphire crystal, and bright orange accents.
When the Rolex Milgauss ref. 116400 first debuted in 2007, it was available in three different configurations. One of the models was fitted with a white dial, while the other two versions had black dials, with one of them paired with a green sapphire crystal (ref. 116400GV). That said, by 2013, the black dial model with a clear crystal had been discontinued, and just a few years later in 2016, the white dial was discontinued too, leaving only the reference 116400GV watches with their green crystals. As a whole, the Milgauss is one of the more underrated Rolex models currently available, and due to their relatively short production run and unique appearance, the discontinued Milgauss 116400 makes a highly compelling option when it comes to unusual and striking Rolex models that can still be purchased for very reasonable prices.
Rolex GMT-Master II 116748SARU
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Compared to other sports models like the Submariner and Explorer, the Rolex GMT-Master was always intended to be a bit more luxurious of a timepiece, and solid gold versions have been available from the very beginning of the watch’s history. That said, a solid gold model is far from the most luxurious execution of Rolex’s famous pilot’s watch, and off-catalog references like the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116748SARU are some of the most fanciful and exclusive versions that have ever been created.
Crafted from solid 18k yellow gold and following the same “Super Case” profile that first debuted on the ceramic bezel GMT-Master II, the reference 116748SARU largely follows the same design as the standard-production ref. 116718LN. However, rather than having a plain black ceramic bezel, the bezel fitted to the Rolex GMT-Master II 116748SARU is fitted with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires that recreate the model’s famous red and blue “Pepsi” bezel, but reimagined in a highly luxurious gem-set format. With its yellow gold case, sparkling red and blue bezel, and bright green “GMT-Master II” signature on the dial, the ref. 116748SARU has a unique and colorful appearance, while simultaneously being one of the most flagrantly luxurious Rolex GMT watches that money can buy.
Rolex Datejust 126234 – Palm Motif Dial
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While many of the top Rolex watches will require a serious six-figure investment, opting for a unique dial variation of a relatively common model is an excellent way to get your hands on something unusual and special without having to spend a small fortune in order to add it to your collection. Launched in 2021, the green “Palm Motif” dial Datejust watches offer an unusual and slightly playful take on what is otherwise one of Rolex’s most traditional and straightforward designs. That said, despite their striking dials, the watches themselves are otherwise entirely identical to their standard counterparts, making them highly attainable targets for most collectors.
Just like the standard versions of the watch, the Palm Dial Rolex Datejust 126234 offers a 36mm stainless steel case fitted with a white gold fluted bezel, a sapphire crystal, and the option of either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. However, sitting center stage is a rich metallic green dial consisting of different shades of green paired with a flowing palm leaf pattern. While the Datejust itself is traditional, restrained, and just about as classic and straightforward as you can get, the Palm Motif dial is the complete opposite in every single way, and the unique juxtaposition of a green leafy dial fitted to one of Rolex’s most conservative designs creates an unusual yet beautiful timepiece that isn’t quite like anything else in Rolex’s modern catalog.
Rolex Daytona 116598SACO “Leopard”
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Although there have been some truly fanciful and unusual Daytona watches released over the years, arguably none are less-Rolex from a design perspective than the reference 116598SACO, which is universally known as the “Leopard” Daytona. Unless you are familiar with this big-cat inspired chronograph, your first instinct is likely to assume that the ref. 116598SACO “Leopard” is some wild third-party custom job, but this crazy jungle cat edition of the Cosmograph Dayona is entirely one of Rolex’s own creations.
Crafted from solid 18k yellow gold with diamond-set lug hoods and a bezel adorned with cognac-colored sapphires, the true party piece of the Rolex Daytona 116598SACO is its dial, which features a yellow and orange gradient effect with diamond-set hour markers and raised leopard spots in black lacquer. Completing the watch is a matching leopard print leather strap that compliments the pattern on the dial, and while the “Leopard” Daytona certainly is a bit of an acquired taste and hardly the watch that effortlessly exists in any setting, it’s undeniable that the ref. 116598SACO “Leopard” is one of the most insane and downright bizarre Rolex watches that have ever been released to the public.
BONUS: Tudor Submariner 9411 “Snowflake”
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Despite being sibling companies, Rolex and Tudor are very different brands these days. However, if you go back far enough into the archives, many Tudor watches shared external case components with their Rolex-branded counterparts, and you will even find the Rolex name and coronet insignia stamped on the crowns and casebacks of many Tudor models.
Among all of the vintage Tudor watches from the brand’s history, it is the classic Snowflake Submariner divers that are typically held in the highest regard, and it is these models that ultimately serve as the aesthetic inspiration for many of Tudor’s most popular modern watches like those from the Black Bay and Pelagos collections. For those that love Rolex’s history but are specifically looking for something that isn’t a Rolex, a vintage Tudor Submariner 9411 “Snowflake” makes a perfect alternative that offers an equally rich history with its own distinct design language.