In the modern era, many brands call upon their past references for inspiration in the present. Collectors of mechanical timepieces are inherently sentimental; preferring the beautiful over the purely practical, collectors romanticize about the past in a way non-collectors may not understand. To this end, watch enthusiasts are predisposed to value vintage pieces. While vintage is perfect for many collectors, others want the appearance and nostalgia of the old with the technical specs, solidity, and manufacturing standards of the new. In step, “vintage inspired” watches deliver that exact combination of modern luxuries with vintage design. It’s a really strong combination, and has taken the industry by storm in recent years with the increase in enthusiasm surrounding vintage models.
Breitling Premier B25 Datora Chronograph
Based on the 1940s Breitling “Datora” models, the Premier B25 Datora was introduced in 2021 with a salmon dial, bringing many classic elements of early Breitling history to a modern audience. A cambered sapphire crystal provides the visual appearance of a vintage cambered mineral crystal, with the strength of sapphire. The case flanks of the B25 are grooved, and the bezel is stepped, consistent with the visual trends of older Breitling chronographs. The B25 Datora serves as a modern revival of what made Breitling a successful brand in the mid 1900s, and is therefore one of the best modern releases in the brand’s recent history.
Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Chronograph
The Omega Speedmaster’s story is directly intertwined with the history of space exploration and NASA. At the heart of this rich lineage lies Ed White’s Speedmaster, the watch worn on the moon that solidified the Omega legacy. While the design of the modern Speedy is certainly vintage inspired, its movement was completely modernized to suit modern standards. On this reference, however, Omega has recreated the caliber 321 found in the original moonwatch. This makes for one of the most accurate reproductions of the Speedmaster of old, allowing modern collectors to enjoy the landmark reference and movement with the solidity of a modern bracelet. In addition to the movement, the case profile and dial layout replicate the aesthetics of the Ed White Speedy.
Patek Philippe 5172G Salmon Dial
As you will see, Patek is a master of vintage-inspired watches. Almost every release from Patek Philippe takes hints and details from past references, blending these aspects to create ostensibly brand new references. And it works. The 5172 is a great example of this phenomenon. A salmon colored dial, syringe hands, sunk registers, pump pushers, and stepped lugs make for a flurry of vintage elements. This design is certainly not new, yet after leaving Patek’s factory it still feels current. The 5172 is one of the greatest Pateks introduced in the last 10 years, and we will likely continue to see Patek experiment with these vintage inspirations in future models as a result of the success of releases such as the 5172.
Patek Philippe 5370P Split-Seconds Chronograph
Yet another Patek vintage inspired chronograph, the 5370P is first and foremost a traditional watch, with a blue (or black) enamel dial, polished Breguet numerals, platinum case, and generally reserved design. This particular variant was launched in 2020, and has a modern case sizing to match its contemporary positioning within Patek’s repertoire. With the 5370P, the movement takes center stage, as ornate as the dial is reserved. The movement side is where one of the advantages of a vintage inspired watch emerges. It has a sapphire caseback, allowing the movement to be seen, a feature that is simply not available on mainstream vintage options. Similarly, the 5370P is 41mm, a size that would be unimaginable by vintage standards. This allows the 5370P to be simultaneously vintage and modern, a successful combination that has made the model a popular favorite among collectors who have watched Patek’s evolution over time.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Vacheron’s Historiques collection is a perfect source for vintage inspired watches. Arguably, they go further than mere inspiration, they create modern adaptations of specific references in history. That said, the benefits of a vintage inspired watch are all present in abundance. The American 1921, in particular, has achieved an iconic status within this segment of the industry, modeled after a 1921 (I know, shocker) reference made for drivers, with a skewed dial and cushion case. There’s a lot to love on the American 1921, from its one of a kind skewed dial to its textured dial, but once more, collectors don’t have to choose between a great vintage design and modern proportions or a sapphire caseback, instead they can get it all.
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 1955 Cornes De Vache
Continuing with classics from the Historiques collection, the 1955 Cornes de Vache replicates a classic hand wound chronograph from the mid-century archive. Named Cornes de Vache after the lugs which resemble the “horns of cows”, this vintage feature is given prominent positioning on the piece, which also features bold font for the tachymeter scale printed on the dial. Everything down to the font has been made to replicate vintage vibes. Once more, the case has grown to 38.5mm for a reserved modern sizing (not quite vintage but certainly not consistent with a modernist presence) and a sapphire caseback providing a great view of the gorgeous in-house caliber VC 1142.
Cartier Santos Dumont 1575 Ultra Thin Special Limited Edition
The Cartier Santos Dumont 1575 was released as a limited edition in commemoration of the 90th anniversary of the celebrated Santos collection. Part of the beauty of Cartier is that it largely maintains its watch collections in their original forms. Look at a vintage Santos and a modern Santos, and not much has changed. This particular variant is a bit more exciting since it’s a limited run of 1,9997 examples in noble platinum with a striking salmon dial. This combination is a bit more interesting than your typical Santos Dumont, without entering the realm of flashy watches. It’s best characterized as a reserved yet vibrant aesthetic.
Patek Philippe 5236 In-Line Perpetual Calendar
We’ve already touched on the brilliance of Patek vintage inspired pieces, and here’s another example: the Patek reference 5236 in-line perpetual calendar. The in-line style of perpetual calendar display is prized for its simplicity and lack of the cluttered subdials characteristic of many perpetual calendar layouts. In-line perpetuals look simple, even while being incredibly sophisticated on the mechanical side. The 5236 was not simply born as a modern conception; rather, the first hints of this design are found back in the pocket watch era with the reference P-1450, whose dial closely resembles the layout found here. Similarly, the case, with its sharp lugs and bezel profile draws from the 3448, one of the most venerated Patek perpetuals in history.
Tudor Black Bay 58
The Tudor Black Bay 58 has quickly become one of the hottest watches in the sub 5k category (and beyond), and its cult following is well deserved. The Black Bay 58 plays on the influences of vintage Submariners, with no crown guards, faux patina on the indexes, a beautiful riveted bracelet, and of course, the dial layout and appearance. This watch is undoubtedly a vintage inspired piece, and rather than the subtle incorporation of vintage elements as is convention with Patek, Tudor blatantly embraces its positioning with vintage inspired watches, intentionally replicating the charisma of Rolex watches of old.
Audemars Piguet (Re)Master01
While the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet’s most recognized design (let’s be honest it’s pretty much the entirety of AP’s brand these days), the maison has some really solid offerings once you venture beyond the octagonal icon. The (Re)Master01 was based on a vintage chronograph, reference 1533, launched by the brand in 1941. In AP’s words, “this is not a historic reissue – it is a contemporary remastering of one of our past creations.” To this end, we now see a 40mm case, sapphire case back, and an in-house automatic winding flyback chronograph mechanism. At the same time, the watch has a beautiful grained vintage-style dial, sunken subsidiary dials, teardrop lugs, blued hands, and more, all calling upon the details of old to inspire the creations of today— which is in essence the very mission of vintage inspired watches.