Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar ref. 3945/001 "Doré" Review

By 1985, the perpetual calendar had spent a decade as a relic in the world of watchmaking, but Patek brought it thundering back into the spotlight with the introduction of the 3940. The model was noted for its slim case, ultra-thin automatic movement, and three registers laid out with the perfect proportions that almost no one has improved on since. 

However, many people seem to forget that the brand launched a second reference alongside it. The 3945 is essentially the same watch with the lugs removed and an integrated gold bracelet taking their place. Undeservedly, the 3945 has lived in its fraternal twin's shadow ever since. 

This example is the 3945/001 in yellow gold, produced in 1990. The case measures 36mm across and is a very wearable 9mm thick. This may sound impossibly small for a full perpetual calendar, until you remember the movement that’s driving it. The bracelet flows straight into the case with no visible break, and the whole thing has the wonderful close-wearing feel that only properly integrated designs can pull off. It'll fit a 7.25 to 7.5-inch wrist as currently sized. 

The doré dial is the part collectors chase 

Doré is Patek's own official word for it. The surface exudes a warm golden champagne hue that can change depending on the light, or with a slight turn of your wrist. Set against a yellow-gold case and matching dauphine hands, it creates a near-monochrome effect, with the warmth and opulence that only this precious metal can offer. Most 3945s left Patek’s manufacture with silvered or opaline dials. This all-golden iteration doesn’t come around often.

The layout is classic: month and leap year at the three o'clock position, date and moon phase at six o’clock, day and 24-hour indication at nine o’clock. Inside you’ll find the caliber 240 Q, the brand’s automatic perpetual built around a 22K gold micro-rotor sunk into the plate, which is the whole reason a watch this complicated can stay under 10mm of thickness.

It comes in like-new condition with its Patek Philippe box, original certificate, and an extract from the archives, both confirming 1990 as its production year. It’s a quietly brilliant reference wearing its rarest dial. Don’t sleep on it.